1000 days of Pulsar 220F(Long Term Review , 60,000 kms)

It’s been nearly 3 years with the Pulsar 220F. And 60,000 Kms later I am all set to write down a review of this wonderful bike, that changed the face of performance biking in India.

The ODO at 60,007 clicks

The ODO at 60,007 clicks

The 220 was launched in 2007 , This bike with its sporty looks and killer performance easily stole the limelight and redefined performance biking in India. But it came at a Price. So naturally, it wasn’t a commodity that every person could dream off. Nonetheless, It was and still is a wonderful machine, I know a few friends who still use this machine with over 90k clicks on the ODO and the machine is still healthy as a horse, which easily destroys the Taboo, that the pulsar engine lasts only for a maximum of 2 years and nothing above 25k kms. It’s true, there is a taboo that the pulsars don’t last much long.

The Bajaj 220F(DTS-i) which was launched in 2009 with a killer price tag, mainly aimed at increasing sales and bringing the performance biking within reach to the common man. But the steps taken by Bajaj was a unique one, they stepped back in terms of technology, they gave the 220 a carburetor instead of the existing Fuel-injection. But with this change they were able to reduce cost, increase power (21PS),torque and mileage , which made it a instant success within the masses. The aggressive pricing being the main attraction among the youth and growing breed of Serious Performance biking community of India.

Now I got my Bike on March 2010. The parts that attracted me the most, the looks(I was a sucker for the twin projector headlights, the LED console), the touring friendly ergonomics, the power and torque and then the killer price tag. All in all it was the perfect vehicle, Complete Value for Money product and it was still a rare machine in my locality, all the more reason to opt for this bike.

In all it's Glory

In all it’s Glory

Graduating from a Yamaha CRUX , it was quite the upgrade one could ask for, even though the Pulsar are known for their raw power and hard to tame character, I didn’t face much problem getting used to the bike, The bike’s engine was broken in in a progressive manner, not the text book slow run-in method. It’s more of a mixture of the conventional break in and the Motoman break-in method. Much importance was not given to the speed , but rather the RPM was kept in check during the initial 1000 Kms. The first 500kms were ridden within 4k rpm gear shifts, with occasional riding up-to 5k rpm and this limit was gradually increased as the miles kept building. In the end, what I got is a perfectly broken-in engine , where the parts are set in correctly and a smooth engine functioning is obtained.

Initial review was like that of any excited rider who graduated to a powerful machine. The comparisons were based with the CRUX I had ridden the acceleration was a massive boost, and the throttle had to be handled carefully, more when the bike crossed 6k band on the RPM, that’s when all the horses are being felt being transmitted to the rear wheel. If not handled carefully it will definitely catch you by surprise.
The Mid-range torque is something to crave for, the raw , unrefined power could be really felt there, along with vibrations from the bike, yes, it does have some vibrations that can be felt directly to the rider.

After riding the bike for almost 3 years now, in every possible condition and terrain that Kerala has to offer , I can surely say, this is one reliable and value for money product. I wouldn’t say that the vehicle doesn’t comes with it’s fair share of problems, honestly it does have quite a number of problems, but the thing is , it’s quite manageable and that makes you understand the ride and respect it more. Here I’ll be listing out quite a few segments from my experience and the defects and its simple solutions too.

Design and Build quality

The bike is a looker, no doubt on that from my side. The quality of the plastic parts are also quite nice. They have lasted me for a long time, although I had changed the rear seat cowl about 5-6k Kms back as the screwing joints had broken and I had no other option but to fix it, as it had started rattling at certain speeds . Then I had a problem of the rubber bushes that was supposed to keep the side panels tight in their position falling off when ever I removed the side panels for regular cleaning of battery terminals and air filter.  Apart from that there wasn’t a problem I had faced with the fiber part.

Coming to design, one thing that I felt very irritating was the RVM’s. I feel very uncomfortable if I can’t get a good view of what is happening behind me. They are by far the worst RVM’s on any Indian bike, it’s practically useless, unless one adjust it after numerous number of corrective positions, even then adjusting it is also a tough job , unlike normal RVM’s this has a completely different setup and once the position has been fiddled with, which always happens when parking in public spaces, the whole RVM tends to get loose and start changing position on it’s own while riding, rendering it completely useless. Somewhere along the line I did get used to it, a solution i would like to propose would be to get the RTR RVM’s fitted, its not a direct fit, some welding work is involved, but it definitely gives more rear view than the stock one’s do.

RVM's , could do with a better design and placement

RVM’s , could do with a better design and placement

Now getting to the fairing, almost all the 220 users will vouch on this, the dreaded fairing vibration, with increase in use-age the fairing starts to vibrate and create distractions while riding, there was almost no solution to this problem, even I faced this problem for quite sometime, then I head of a solution, a simple ,yet effective solution. Using of Double sided tape while fitting the fairing back. This almost made the fairing vibration to non existence. Costing just about Rs200/- with labor charge , it was a cheap fix. And moreover the newer machines comes with the double taped form so, Bajaj has taken care of this issue.

So , areas of Improvement in this front are : Better RVM’s and maybe a more permanent or standard fix for the fairing vibration problems.

Engine Refinement & Performance :

Bajaj is known for many things ,but engine refinement is not one of those , excluding the 200NS that is,which is a mutant pulsar and is a league apart, in the sense that the older pulsar characteristic is no longer present, in a good way mostly.

The Bajaj 220F has a much more refined engine than the other pulsar’s though, I can say for sure as I have test rode every other pulsar. But it isn’t that re fineness as for a Honda or a Yamaha. My Crux used to run more refined on really old engine oil while the Pulsar would be rough and clunky with just barely 1000 Kms on some bad oil.

So here goes, the engine is a 220 cc mill, churns out 21PS of power.The refinement is quite good and acceptable, not much engine vibrations, but with a new engine you can never be so sure, during the break in period it would be always like an angry teenager, rough, clunky,over heating and all. Once the engine had settled in, it was all good and peaceful, but if the oil is out , then the engine doesn’t work well.
Not exactly a bad thing, but that’s how the Bajaj mill’s behaves. So my point being, the Bajaj engines in comparison might be less refined than a Yamaha or a Honda.

DSC04536

The refinement of the engine is mainly maintained by using the correct grade of oil , draining at the correct time. I have tried on a variety of Engine oil, a mixture of a few different ones too and have reached at a conclusion on what runs best on the Pulsar 220, or any pulsars for that matter.So basically, you change the engine oil religiously according to your usage pattern and drain interval and your engine remains healthy and will last long.

So now, let’s talk engine oil.
I have used the Bajaj Oil 10000, Motul Mineral, Motul SS 5100, Motul FS 7100, Motul 300V, Castrol Activ 4T, and a few other brands, don’t remember the names, they weren’t any good anyway, so that’s lesser work to do.So below is the review on each oil that I have used and can recall.

Bajaj 10,000 – They claim it to be a “Semi Synthetic”(SS) oil, and that it lasts for 10,000 kms. That is just false advertising. It hardly holds together for 2000kms in mixed riding conditions in my case and many other users can vouch for that too. The first 1000 Kms it performs well, then it’s downhill in a jiffy.

Bajaj D|TSi oil, the “10,000kms” drain interval oil 😛

Motul Mineral – Just like any other mineral oil. Drain interval of 2000 Kms and your engine won’t complain.

Motul Mineral

Motul Mineral

Motul 5100 SS- The best oil for Pulsar 220. The grade 15W50. This is the perfect oil at the perfect price. The reason i say so is that, apart from the fact that, unless you are into racing or full time high revving use, the Motul SS and the Motul FS doesn’t feel any different and the FS costs a lot more than the SS. The Motul SS retails at Rs 495/- per liter.I maintained a drain interval of 4k and the oil had still some life left in it. So my vote goes for Motul 5100 15W40. If you can source 20w50, then it’d be even better..!!

Motul SS

Motul 7100 FS – Great oil, but didn’t find it much different than the 5100. Costs about Rs7xx per liter.

Motul 7100 FS

Motul 300V – Great oil, the best for high revving action, the oil holds on for long, but it’s at the costlier side, nearly a 1000rs for one liter of this oil. It can last for well over 5k kms in normal usage  But the 300v is known for inducing slight head leakage, not in a significant way, but still its a bother getting the gaskets changed just because of that.

Motul 300v FS(Double Ester)

Castrol Activ 4t – Mineral oil, to sum it up, not worth it, the engine gets rough all too soon than you expect and gear shifts are in no way smoother. My opinion would be to stay away from this one.

So choose wisely the blood for your bike’s heart and you have yourself a refined engine right there.

Tip: During winter time, to avoid cold starts, use xW40 grade oil, no cold start issues, but then try to avoid long distance rides at a single stretch, the engine gets hotter much faster with a xW40 grade oil.

All that apart, the engine does hold on pretty good for long enough, it has had the abuse it can go through, almost all conditions, all terrains and all riding patterns, and it’s holding good. The only engine components I have changed as yet are Clutch plate at 47k kms , cam shaft and rocker arms(had to change cause of a busted cam shaft) both at 47k itself. Rest all the engine components are running stock, and not giving any complains as of yet.

A engine de-carbonizing was done at 25k. Most of the service after that was done at home by me, nothing beats working on your own bike on a lazy morning day.

Other parts changed are regular consumable parts like
1.Chain & Sprocket set, each set lasted me about 20-25k kms with not so regular maintenance. Read this for more information about proper maintenance tips.
2.Brake Pads set, front and rear, front pads lasted more than rear, though I use rear break very less, something to do with quality of the spare I guess.Note: Mine is the first gen KBX unit.Which can be upgraded to Bybre one’s which are said to be giving better feedback, but honestly, I find the KBX on mine to be working upto my satisfaction, having saved my skin more often than I would like to remember.

Let’s move on here, the next part I would like to focus on is Rideability.

Rideability:

The 220 is almost a complete package, an all-rounder to put it subtly. On the broader scheme of things, you can take this bike and go anywhere. But just for the sake of the review let’s break it up.

City:A good city ride, but on the heavier side, make maneuverability a bit of a concern if you are on the shorter side in height, the front end is much heavier than you would like it to be, so in some cases you will find yourself hauling it with all your strength to make it go where you want it to go, but a little getting used to it all you need and you can flick it pretty much in a controllable manner. Though truth be said, the massive torque that can be used makes the heavy weight kinda not a problem at all, though the lighter 150 cc’s might be more flickable, it’s just not as much fun as the 220, I’m sure many would agree.

Highway:Mile cruncher it is, it’s been born for the highway roads, the comfort is just surprisingly good, find a sweet spot and your set for a full day of nonstop riding, and with a properly maintained engine, it’s just pure bliss. The seating position is very much comfortable for any kind of riding, it has ample cushion on the seat, not very stiff, not too spongy too, just the right amount. For the serious tourer’s out there, a little more padding on the seat can be a great boon.

Mile Cruncher

Mile Cruncher

Now a bit of the mildly technical stuff behind it being so good on the highway,the fairing does a great job taking the wind blast off the chest, the heavy weight gives more stability in crosswinds, the powerful mill makes long distance rides fun, and night riding is just too plain easy, visibility is not a concern at all, the best headlights any Indian manufacturer has to offer, both low and high beam are 55w bulbs, the low beam comes with projector setup, and high beam is a Ellipsoidal lamp which gives a pointed beam , so it gets even better.

DSC03692

Off-roading: Surprisingly enough, hold very good too, though the suspension is a big let down, the rear one’s specially, but standing on the foot-pegs can give a considerable difference there too. Considering the state of conditions in some places at Kerala, the off-road motocross roads are even better laid, and having ridden through these above mentioned roads, i can say, the bike managed pretty well, had only one case of busted fork oil seals, that too well after 50k on the ODO, so it’s safe to conclude , the 220 can handle off-road pretty well too.But a bit of tweak on the out dated rear shocks and frame is a welcome change any day.

One part that must be mentioned are the rims, the 17″ rims are very strong, it has not had any bends even in occasions of having fallen into potholes with a pillion too at speeds above 60 kmph and came out without any problems, and no damage to the tires too.

Maneuverability :

Now , let’s talk how good it is around a corner. Well, not so good. The tube type chassis has been outdated decades ago, and is not suited for cornering action. And add the heavy front to the equation it gets worse, a small calculation error and the front slides away and spits you out, the bike is merciless and unforgiving at that point, takes a leap of faith to really lean her out on the corner, though with proper technique and lots of guts, it can be done, trust me, have achieved quite good lean angles, and know a few who manage even more insane lean angle.  Another thing that weighs it down in this area is the suspension, the front is stiff enough and good to go, but the rear is a big let down, its just not good enough, be it for touring or taking corners, still does without much problem for touring, but I could definitely do with a better set. But when it comes to corners, the rear shocks give a big scare, the rear end is all over the place , something you don’t want while leaning in. Making it a stiffer setting also doesn’t help much, it just isn’t made for it, some say the Karizma or the RTR shocks are a good replacement for it, but have to test it to conform it.

So I guess, it’s safe to say that, the 220’s or the older gen Pulsar are not meant for cornering action, though they do take it with a great bit of skill and technique. The 200NS comes as a revelation here from the Bajaj stable,  it’s just mind blowing in the handling department.

Pulsar 220F

Pulsar 220F

Now, let’s quickly talk about maneuverability in city spaces and tight spots, in city traffic, initially the weight or big bike feel might raise doubts on it’s flickability , but once you get a hang of it, it becomes almost too easy to cut it out through heavy traffic. Handling that weight was never a big problem for me, unless I had to push the bike with my legs, as I am a bit short for the bike, both my legs are not completely planted to the ground, when the bike is standstill. That gives me a disadvantage on the weight part, but once i get moving , that problem vanishes. So I can safely say that city flickability is quite ok , and too easy for me with this bike, but that is not the case with U turns or tight spots, the larger turning radius is the reason here, that and the weight for short riders can be a problem while taking U-turns.Next , let’s talk Tires.

Tyre:

When it comes to the rubber, we have a few option here, which can make the bike more grippy , responsive and more fun to lean in to a corner.
The stock bike comes with stock MRF Zapper FS tire at front and similar one(forgot the model name) of zapper at the rear. Those are somewhat of a hard compound, they give good grip in dry conditions and Ok-ish grip in wet conditions, had used that one only until the stock tires gave in, then i shifted to the MRF Zapper Vyde (120/80/17) at rear as compared to the stock option(120/90/17). The front tire was retained as it is at 90/90/17.

The MRF Zapper Vyde

The MRF Zapper Vyde

Side View

Side View

And with this change the bike just turned out to be more fun, the Zapper Vyde, is a softer compound rubber, so grips more, and has a more rounder profile than the stock tire, so in appearance looks not as beefy as the stock tires, though the cross section size is the same, and the ride height is lowered a tad bit.But the grip of this tire is just marvelous in both wet and dry conditions, amazing traction  have lost the rear only 2-3 time till now with this tire(been using the same one for last 2 changes, so totally i’m running on my 3rd set of Zapper Vyde) and those were very much controllable slides, making it kinda fun.

Though it is a softer compound  it is not prone to much punctures, in my time of 60,000 kms on this bike, i had only a single puncture till date, and trust me , the bike has seen the worst possible terrains and filthy littered roads that one can find here in Kerala. But it does come with a small disadvantage, it wears off faster than the stock rubber, understandable since it uses a more softer compound of rubber than the stock, but when comparing with the kind of grip and fun this tire provides, it’s totally worth it.

P.S: The Zapper Vyde costs about 200-300 more than the stock option.

So my advice for MRF users would be, get the Zapper Vyde for the rear when going in for a change, keep the front stock as it serves pretty good, there are other options for the front tire too, feel free to experiment and if possible do leave a feedback here, so that perhaps i can try a change too.

Now, let me get to a part on which a lot of people ask me about, when they see the mileage i have put up with this bike. “Have I done any kind of Engine rebuilds / works to keep it running this far ?”

Engine Works History

As of till date, the engine head has been opened only 3 times,  First time was at 25,000 kms to get the de-carbonizing done, then next was to replace the rockers, but the mechanic had failed to realize that the cam-shaft was damaged , that in-turn gave rise to the rockers failing again and head had to be opened for another change of rockers and cam-shaft. The cam shaft gave way at about 45k kms and the clutch plates at about 47k kms.  So the only time the head was opened was when there was a need of change in parts at the right time. Apart from that the engine is untouched and not modded in any other way, it speaks in great volumes about the reliability of this Bajaj product. And also proves if maintained properly, a bike as “less” refined as a Bajaj can last this long considering the abuse it has taken in a short span of time.  Now at 60,000 kms the bike is going to go for another de-carbonizing and possibly a timing chain replacement.

Now, another small topic, after riding the bike for quite some time, it’s natural to feel bored with the bike’s stock performance and some might wan’t to mod the bike to make things a bit more interesting. For which there are quite some options, but modding comes with it’s risk. After much searching I changed my exhaust to a Race concepts Free Flow Exhaust provided by Race Concepts. Have been using it for nearly the last 30,000 kms and riding the bike with it has become much more fun, have also done a detailed review of the same, if you wish to know more on that respect, click here.

Conclusion 

After almost 3 years of ownership with this beautiful machine, I can say that, Bajaj has done a great job with the 220, a leader in it’s class for quite a few years, before it got outdated, but still packs enough punch to kick some serious ass out there..!! It’s a great bike, great power, great comfort, apt for long rides, but also could do with some better shocks, a better frame , but hey, no bike is perfect.  Yet still, many of the short comings have been rectified with the new flagship model 200NS, but of-course which is a naked bike.

:-D

😀

Pulsar 220F

Pulsar 220F

In all fairness, I would love to see a new bike from Bajaj which carries the 220 DNA with more attention to a few aspects like Suspension, Better Chassis, a 6th cog for cruising mode and a more powerful mill would be icing on the cake.Then Bajaj being Bajaj , a Kickass pricing and there you have an almost perfect bike for Indian roads. Hope the time is not too far away for this wish to be full filled.

Update : And the bike we have been waiting for is here. The Pulsar 200AS.

So, I guess it’s time to wind up the review here, I am certain I might have missed some aspect here and there, after-all clearing all grounds is a rather tough and time consuming job. So if you find some aspect that i have missed here and want to know about it , do leave me a feedback in the comments section and i will surely get back to you with the answer, or you can contact us at wheelsnshields@gmail.com.

Cheers

Ride Safe

Krishna
Wheels’N’Shields

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308 responses to “1000 days of Pulsar 220F(Long Term Review , 60,000 kms)

  1. Honestly I hate pulsar family coz of its quality and over population.. In ur review u explained everything in a very nice manner.. nd i realized any bike with proper maintenance will live more.. I appreciate ur Passion towards ur ride.. on the whole its a great review..

    Like

  2. My first bike was Bajaj Caliber, which had completed a whopping 2,25,000 KMs, before we sold out it. She served me almost 6 years.
    We had to spend more than 5K per year for maintenance.
    Then I used Unicorn & after 8 years came back to Bajaj family by a proud owner of “NS”
    Now it is good to hear that your 220 is running without any major problem even after 60K KMs.
    A nice review by you 🙂 having many valuable information

    Like

    • Wow. that’s great. Old bikes are really built to take the brute forces pitted against them. And have a great time with the NS, it is really one helluva machine. have tested it extensively since the launch in Kerala. My friend was the first to get it in the whole of Trichur district.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  3. i would like to know about the engine noises that one has to face after 10k done on the odo… very nice review … enjoyed reading it .. you never mentioned about the fuel consumption figures .. since its doesn’t matter that much but its a FAQ

    Like

    • Hai Subir.
      The reason I din’t mention the mileage figures was because for nearly the last 27-28k i have been running on a Free flow exhaust which has boosted my mileage by a considerable amount, which i have explained in the external link within this review.
      The stock mileage figures i got was from anywhere between 49-49kmpl when driven very sanely and 35-40kmpl when ridden spiritedly.
      And with the FFE my mileage figures are 50-55kmpl when ridden sanely( a lean tune) and 40-45kmpl on spirited riding.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  4. Hi Cheta,

    I just wanted to know how did you use the double sided tape?
    Is it something the mechanics around aware of using it to avoid vibrations?

    regards
    Shekhar

    Like

  5. Pingback: 1000 DAYS OF PULSAR 220F(LONG TERM REVIEW , 60,000 KMS) | Lonely Wanderer·

  6. Pingback: 1000 DAYS OF PULSAR 220F(LONG TERM REVIEW , 60,000 KMS) | Wheels'n'Shields·

  7. Hi Krishna. I too had a P220F that I used for 30k kms. It was a brilliant bike. Had an issue with the rear shocks bottoming out but that was solved; all u need to do is remove the sari guard and run on “2” setup. The sari guard blocks the free movement of the rear shock, removing it allows free movement of the shocks.

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  8. I am planning to buy Pulsar 220 F this month, can u tell me the exact mileage of this bike in the beginning & after 1 year or 2…
    Reply asap, help needed… multiple feedback much welcome.. Please provide genuine mileage

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  9. superb … detailed and vivid review. Thanks “Wheels’N’Shields”. The best review I read for a long time. Actually I had a Pulsar 150cc, which ran for 16K KMs without any problem as such, before it got STOLEN. So I have no issues with Pulsar brand , unlike many. They are VFM machines, if one is caring towards them. Thinking of buying a new one and your review has helped me on deciding my new steed. Thanks again.
    One thing I want to know…. During Run-In stage, is it mainly important to maintain the Speed Limit or the RPM limit ?? And is it a good idea to adjust the nut to increase the mileage ??

    Arijit.

    Like

    • Thanks arjit

      And to answer your question.
      Always follow the rpm limit,make sure you dont run in same rpm all the time,instead vary the rpm constanly in a smooth way. And avoid sudden accelarations. You can take her to higher speeds gradually…it wont be a problem.

      About adjusting nut,if you mean the afr screw. Do not adjust it unless you have a complete and proper understanding of working of carb. Improper afr can lead to too rich or too lean mixture and cause to lose fe and also effect engine life.

      Cheers
      Ride safe
      Krishna

      Like

  10. Very Good review.
    I own a 220F 2013 model, I faced some problem like starter slipping, rear shock absorber oil leak etc. But all problems solved promptly and my gives excellent fuel efficiency of 45-50kmpl when ridden between 3k to 4k RPM.My bike clocked 15000Km.

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  11. hiii krishna…now i’m using pulsar 220f…and its run 35000kms…from the first service to the second last service (30000kms) i used castrol 20w50… from the last service onwords i changed castrol to MOTUL 300V 15W50 fully synthetic oil…is there any problem for using 300v 15w50??? some of my friendz says that 7100 20w50 is more better than 300v 15w50…i’m so confused about it…plz help me…which one is more better for p220f???

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    • The 300v in some cases is known to spring up gasket leaks, that is the only drawback of using it on the pulsar series, the engine will be really smooth and will hold together even in high revs,
      the 7100 would do the exact same thing , the only difference being it won’t cause any leakage of gaskets(7100 being single ester and 300v being double ester, apparently it is this double ester stuff that causes the leak) and is cheaper than the 300v

      So, if you can get hold of 7100 then use it, if 300v is ok with respect to its price then use the 300v

      Cheers
      ride safe
      Krishna

      Like

      • thnxxx Krishna…

        I want to know one thing also…the company required grade for P220f is 20w50…& motul 300v is 15w50… is this grade changes causes any problem for the engine??? 300v 15w50 is a racing oil, can we use this oil for normal ride???

        7100 or 300v- which one is more MORE more better for P220f engine???

        Like

          • money is not my problem…best oil is my problem…:-(… I am so confused about it…I want to know that which oil (Motul 300v or 7100) will gives my p220 engine more life & more protection??? 

            if 7100 is more good, can I change 300v to 7100 for my next service??? is there any problem for changing (15w50 to 20w50) like that???

            Like

            • The answer to that was in my previous question.
              if you are a kind of person who always revs the engine a lot and shift at higher RPM the 300V suits best, as such riding generates more heat and wear in the engine and the double ester tech of the 300v helps in giving the lubricating property needed to survive in that condition.
              But if you do not take the bike so much into the redline then you do not need that kind of protection and the 7100 will do more than enough to give excellent lubrication.
              So, the perfect oil selection is more based on the type of rider you are.
              In a nutshell, if you rev a lot and do a lot of high speed go for the Motul 300V if you are a moderate rider and rev the bike high once in a blue moon or a bit more frequently, go for the 7100.
              So choose wisely, for I do not know what is the riding pattern you follow.

              And coming to changing the grades, no changing from 15W50 to 20W50 won’t cause any problems.

              Cheers
              Ride Safe
              Krishna

              Like

  12. i hav 2002 model pulsar 150 but now im planning to buy pulsar220 i liked your review very much but u dint tell the mileage abt ur bike,can u pleasE let me know….and many say tht 200ns is better thn 220f and say me to buy ns but i hav been a fan of 220 so i would like to know wht u think about these thinks….
    Thank you

    Like

    • Mileage figures were a safe bet at 38-43kmpl for my style of riding, I do not take much high speeds and very little sudden accelerations too.

      Now regarding the NS and 220, the NS is miles ahead in technological advancements and better in handling too. But is the 200ns better than 220 ? hard to say, based on your requirements only one can make that decision.
      For city rides, the ns might be a bit more comfortable and lighter than 220, for highways the 220 will be more at home. Though i would maintain my view that the 220 is a more all-rounder in the “go-anywhere with bike” aspect as it is a tried and tested bike for years now.

      Cheers
      Ride safe
      Krishna

      Like

  13. it was really nice review on P220 … after reading this review i booked the bike without even havng a test drive…. i was looking for a bike both for highway and city riding .. learnt biking in my brothers pulsar150 and became a pulsar maniac, and no other brands impressed me it was just pulsar for me… just few days spent with the black beast and its awesome bike it has got BYBRE brakes gets the beast to halt smoothly if combination braking applied…….. just 50kms done so i havnt revd it much and riding it 40-50km speed limit … anyone who rides it will feel good but one who owns it will just love the beast…..

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  14. Hi, I bought pulsar 220 sf(2014 models are called as sf series) in the month of feb, 2014. First service was done at 565km. Along with all performance, I am getting consistent 45+ mileage. I verified two times, one is before first service and after 1st service. I ride mostly on ringroads which is main source route to my office. I don’t use clutch unnecessarily. sometimes very slow moving traffic builds up on ringroad where required to go 1-10km/hr. In this situation i use 2nd gear.

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  15. It’s a very good & very helpful review for all Bajaj Pulsar 220 users..
    Thanks a lot.
    Satadru Basu
    +91 9883268886

    Like

  16. i really use to find reviews to be boring but i found this one to be interesting as u have suggested with oil,tires etc to be used and almost everything rider should know u haven’t said beyond what the bike is capable of u have described both upside and down side of bike,lately i have ridden this beast and i loved this bike,planned to get it soon

    Like

  17. hy friend. i hav a plan to buy pulsar 220f. i want to know the absolute mileage for decent drive & rash driving. not interested in 200ns so pls send me the details of 220f pls……….

    Like

  18. Hey bro. I am planning to buy a 220f but m very much confused because i heard a lot negative reviews about it so could ypu please help me out

    Like

  19. i recently lost my rtr180. im planing to buy a pulsar 220 as it give more top speed than 200ns as i like being fast. thanks for the review dude.

    Like

  20. Hi bro… Im using castrol powere1 15w40.. is it good for my 220f… im a jst rash driver and my engine getting heavily heat … plz help

    Like

    • The grade of the oil you are using is not good for a lot of high rev action.
      Get some oil with grade 15W50 or 20W50 , preferably motul or shell. And also make sure it is a semi synthetic or fully synthetic.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe

      Like

  21. Hi Bro,
    Its an OCT 2009 edition P220F DTS-I and since past 2 years the low fuel oil indicator does not seem to go away. everytime I land on highways doing 60-70 kmph the low fuel oil icon on the (extreme far right symbol) gets triggered. The eng. oil has been changed recently and oil level always set between min and max. umm .. some oil is visible on the side stand(possibly the chain lubrication oil) got there somehow.
    So, yes even though it does not matter to some, this is a big deal for me as I want to keep my machine neat and clean with no niggling issues. Please help .. Thanks in advance. ! 🙂

    Like

  22. Ha .. I tried to weld my mirrors with a rod of a similar old mirrors that broke… result : The ball inside the mirror that rotates the mirror melted like choco butter inside and became useless.. You see Bajaj has fitted the mirrors like that for a purpose. Imagine some punk@$$ throwing a high beam from behind @night. That case our hands do the job of blocking that scene : P

    Like

  23. Thanks for a Best review.I want to buy a pulsar 220f then u should tell me which color
    Is the Best. I am confused please help me
    Brother.

    Like

  24. Hai bro , its good to be part of such a moto professional like you!!
    and here’s a doubt from which i have been not finding a solution,
    i own a pulsar 220f , & want to make mods regarding airfilter in place of stock airfilter!!!! . Do these filters(not stock filters) play their part well?
    Are they efficient? Will they filter the dust effectively & efficiently?????
    their key role in mileage drop or gain??
    *** if its good (modified air filter), which air fliter can be suggested by you from the list of the airfilters stated and why?
    K&N(COTTAN GUAGE)
    UNI(FOAM FILTER)
    ***

    HOPE TO GET ANSWER FOR MY QUERY!!
    EAGERLY WAITING FOR YOUR RESPONSE!!!!!!

    Like

    • Hai Dasari. Thanks for the kind words.
      Now about the aftermarket filters. Just changing filters are of no use.you must upjet the carb accordingly and a well tuned exhaust to merit from the high flow air filter.
      Now abt dust filtering these high flow filters take in more dust and are susseptable to more water droplets in monsoons.
      So if you are thinking of just a filtrr upgrade.i would advice to stay away from it.

      Cheers
      Ride safe

      Like

  25. Does the projector lamps offer good visibility than the stock bulbs in case of pulsar 220??? is it adviced to change of stock lighting system to projectors & why ??? does this modification lead to any warrany violation???

    Like

    • It will lead to voiding the warranty.
      Also the lighting electrical modification should be done properly otherwise it will cause problem with the bike electrical system in whole. Get a good electrical works guy who specialises in such mods and consult with him.

      Like

  26. Gud morning dude!!
    I have a query for you.
    I’m going to purchase a new pulsar 220 2014 model, and I want to do certain mods regarding air filter and carburater upjecting!!!!!!!!
    On a new bike will it be advisable to do the above mods!!!????? Or
    After a certain period of kilo meters ???
    HOPE TO GET REPLIED SOON!

    Like

    • The modifications you intent to d can be done even on a new bike, it all depends on how well the modification is done and how good you run in the engine, that is solely in the hands of the mechanic and you .
      So do it at your own risk,
      Personally i would wait for a few thousand kms before i do any kind of modifications keeping the warranty in ind and to identify any manufacturing defects(if any) to pop up first.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe

      Like

  27. In wide range of after market air filters which air filter soots best for performance (high air flow and less mileage drop) along with upjecting and free flow exaust for pulsar 220 ,pls reply with a good aud filter name!!!!!!!!!!

    Like

    • I would suggest Piper Cross air filter.
      Buying and installation should be done from reputed place to ensure you are not duped with a fake product and that installation and upjetting is done properly by a experienced mechanic.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe

      Like

  28. Once again its happy to associate with you!!!!!!
    my question to you is why pipercross???? is there any special reason for choosing piper cross filter!!!!! leaving behind top airfilter’s like K&N ,and UNI FILTERS ???? Is it better than the rest ??? As i am confused regarding which of them to install because as my friends are recommending these two filters!!!!!
    so please throw some light on this !!!!!!!
    eagerly waiting for your reply!!!!!!!!

    Like

    • K&n has a more intake flow which is not so favourable thing when you want in tuning.
      Ifs mostly technical stuff and moreover i have heard more positive review for the brand. I have heard more negetives for the k&n.

      Like

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