1000 days of Pulsar 220F(Long Term Review , 60,000 kms)

It’s been nearly 3 years with the Pulsar 220F. And 60,000 Kms later I am all set to write down a review of this wonderful bike, that changed the face of performance biking in India.

The ODO at 60,007 clicks

The ODO at 60,007 clicks

The 220 was launched in 2007 , This bike with its sporty looks and killer performance easily stole the limelight and redefined performance biking in India. But it came at a Price. So naturally, it wasn’t a commodity that every person could dream off. Nonetheless, It was and still is a wonderful machine, I know a few friends who still use this machine with over 90k clicks on the ODO and the machine is still healthy as a horse, which easily destroys the Taboo, that the pulsar engine lasts only for a maximum of 2 years and nothing above 25k kms. It’s true, there is a taboo that the pulsars don’t last much long.

The Bajaj 220F(DTS-i) which was launched in 2009 with a killer price tag, mainly aimed at increasing sales and bringing the performance biking within reach to the common man. But the steps taken by Bajaj was a unique one, they stepped back in terms of technology, they gave the 220 a carburetor instead of the existing Fuel-injection. But with this change they were able to reduce cost, increase power (21PS),torque and mileage , which made it a instant success within the masses. The aggressive pricing being the main attraction among the youth and growing breed of Serious Performance biking community of India.

Now I got my Bike on March 2010. The parts that attracted me the most, the looks(I was a sucker for the twin projector headlights, the LED console), the touring friendly ergonomics, the power and torque and then the killer price tag. All in all it was the perfect vehicle, Complete Value for Money product and it was still a rare machine in my locality, all the more reason to opt for this bike.

In all it's Glory

In all it’s Glory

Graduating from a Yamaha CRUX , it was quite the upgrade one could ask for, even though the Pulsar are known for their raw power and hard to tame character, I didn’t face much problem getting used to the bike, The bike’s engine was broken in in a progressive manner, not the text book slow run-in method. It’s more of a mixture of the conventional break in and the Motoman break-in method. Much importance was not given to the speed , but rather the RPM was kept in check during the initial 1000 Kms. The first 500kms were ridden within 4k rpm gear shifts, with occasional riding up-to 5k rpm and this limit was gradually increased as the miles kept building. In the end, what I got is a perfectly broken-in engine , where the parts are set in correctly and a smooth engine functioning is obtained.

Initial review was like that of any excited rider who graduated to a powerful machine. The comparisons were based with the CRUX I had ridden the acceleration was a massive boost, and the throttle had to be handled carefully, more when the bike crossed 6k band on the RPM, that’s when all the horses are being felt being transmitted to the rear wheel. If not handled carefully it will definitely catch you by surprise.
The Mid-range torque is something to crave for, the raw , unrefined power could be really felt there, along with vibrations from the bike, yes, it does have some vibrations that can be felt directly to the rider.

After riding the bike for almost 3 years now, in every possible condition and terrain that Kerala has to offer , I can surely say, this is one reliable and value for money product. I wouldn’t say that the vehicle doesn’t comes with it’s fair share of problems, honestly it does have quite a number of problems, but the thing is , it’s quite manageable and that makes you understand the ride and respect it more. Here I’ll be listing out quite a few segments from my experience and the defects and its simple solutions too.

Design and Build quality

The bike is a looker, no doubt on that from my side. The quality of the plastic parts are also quite nice. They have lasted me for a long time, although I had changed the rear seat cowl about 5-6k Kms back as the screwing joints had broken and I had no other option but to fix it, as it had started rattling at certain speeds . Then I had a problem of the rubber bushes that was supposed to keep the side panels tight in their position falling off when ever I removed the side panels for regular cleaning of battery terminals and air filter.  Apart from that there wasn’t a problem I had faced with the fiber part.

Coming to design, one thing that I felt very irritating was the RVM’s. I feel very uncomfortable if I can’t get a good view of what is happening behind me. They are by far the worst RVM’s on any Indian bike, it’s practically useless, unless one adjust it after numerous number of corrective positions, even then adjusting it is also a tough job , unlike normal RVM’s this has a completely different setup and once the position has been fiddled with, which always happens when parking in public spaces, the whole RVM tends to get loose and start changing position on it’s own while riding, rendering it completely useless. Somewhere along the line I did get used to it, a solution i would like to propose would be to get the RTR RVM’s fitted, its not a direct fit, some welding work is involved, but it definitely gives more rear view than the stock one’s do.

RVM's , could do with a better design and placement

RVM’s , could do with a better design and placement

Now getting to the fairing, almost all the 220 users will vouch on this, the dreaded fairing vibration, with increase in use-age the fairing starts to vibrate and create distractions while riding, there was almost no solution to this problem, even I faced this problem for quite sometime, then I head of a solution, a simple ,yet effective solution. Using of Double sided tape while fitting the fairing back. This almost made the fairing vibration to non existence. Costing just about Rs200/- with labor charge , it was a cheap fix. And moreover the newer machines comes with the double taped form so, Bajaj has taken care of this issue.

So , areas of Improvement in this front are : Better RVM’s and maybe a more permanent or standard fix for the fairing vibration problems.

Engine Refinement & Performance :

Bajaj is known for many things ,but engine refinement is not one of those , excluding the 200NS that is,which is a mutant pulsar and is a league apart, in the sense that the older pulsar characteristic is no longer present, in a good way mostly.

The Bajaj 220F has a much more refined engine than the other pulsar’s though, I can say for sure as I have test rode every other pulsar. But it isn’t that re fineness as for a Honda or a Yamaha. My Crux used to run more refined on really old engine oil while the Pulsar would be rough and clunky with just barely 1000 Kms on some bad oil.

So here goes, the engine is a 220 cc mill, churns out 21PS of power.The refinement is quite good and acceptable, not much engine vibrations, but with a new engine you can never be so sure, during the break in period it would be always like an angry teenager, rough, clunky,over heating and all. Once the engine had settled in, it was all good and peaceful, but if the oil is out , then the engine doesn’t work well.
Not exactly a bad thing, but that’s how the Bajaj mill’s behaves. So my point being, the Bajaj engines in comparison might be less refined than a Yamaha or a Honda.

DSC04536

The refinement of the engine is mainly maintained by using the correct grade of oil , draining at the correct time. I have tried on a variety of Engine oil, a mixture of a few different ones too and have reached at a conclusion on what runs best on the Pulsar 220, or any pulsars for that matter.So basically, you change the engine oil religiously according to your usage pattern and drain interval and your engine remains healthy and will last long.

So now, let’s talk engine oil.
I have used the Bajaj Oil 10000, Motul Mineral, Motul SS 5100, Motul FS 7100, Motul 300V, Castrol Activ 4T, and a few other brands, don’t remember the names, they weren’t any good anyway, so that’s lesser work to do.So below is the review on each oil that I have used and can recall.

Bajaj 10,000 – They claim it to be a “Semi Synthetic”(SS) oil, and that it lasts for 10,000 kms. That is just false advertising. It hardly holds together for 2000kms in mixed riding conditions in my case and many other users can vouch for that too. The first 1000 Kms it performs well, then it’s downhill in a jiffy.

Bajaj D|TSi oil, the “10,000kms” drain interval oil 😛

Motul Mineral – Just like any other mineral oil. Drain interval of 2000 Kms and your engine won’t complain.

Motul Mineral

Motul Mineral

Motul 5100 SS- The best oil for Pulsar 220. The grade 15W50. This is the perfect oil at the perfect price. The reason i say so is that, apart from the fact that, unless you are into racing or full time high revving use, the Motul SS and the Motul FS doesn’t feel any different and the FS costs a lot more than the SS. The Motul SS retails at Rs 495/- per liter.I maintained a drain interval of 4k and the oil had still some life left in it. So my vote goes for Motul 5100 15W40. If you can source 20w50, then it’d be even better..!!

Motul SS

Motul 7100 FS – Great oil, but didn’t find it much different than the 5100. Costs about Rs7xx per liter.

Motul 7100 FS

Motul 300V – Great oil, the best for high revving action, the oil holds on for long, but it’s at the costlier side, nearly a 1000rs for one liter of this oil. It can last for well over 5k kms in normal usage  But the 300v is known for inducing slight head leakage, not in a significant way, but still its a bother getting the gaskets changed just because of that.

Motul 300v FS(Double Ester)

Castrol Activ 4t – Mineral oil, to sum it up, not worth it, the engine gets rough all too soon than you expect and gear shifts are in no way smoother. My opinion would be to stay away from this one.

So choose wisely the blood for your bike’s heart and you have yourself a refined engine right there.

Tip: During winter time, to avoid cold starts, use xW40 grade oil, no cold start issues, but then try to avoid long distance rides at a single stretch, the engine gets hotter much faster with a xW40 grade oil.

All that apart, the engine does hold on pretty good for long enough, it has had the abuse it can go through, almost all conditions, all terrains and all riding patterns, and it’s holding good. The only engine components I have changed as yet are Clutch plate at 47k kms , cam shaft and rocker arms(had to change cause of a busted cam shaft) both at 47k itself. Rest all the engine components are running stock, and not giving any complains as of yet.

A engine de-carbonizing was done at 25k. Most of the service after that was done at home by me, nothing beats working on your own bike on a lazy morning day.

Other parts changed are regular consumable parts like
1.Chain & Sprocket set, each set lasted me about 20-25k kms with not so regular maintenance. Read this for more information about proper maintenance tips.
2.Brake Pads set, front and rear, front pads lasted more than rear, though I use rear break very less, something to do with quality of the spare I guess.Note: Mine is the first gen KBX unit.Which can be upgraded to Bybre one’s which are said to be giving better feedback, but honestly, I find the KBX on mine to be working upto my satisfaction, having saved my skin more often than I would like to remember.

Let’s move on here, the next part I would like to focus on is Rideability.

Rideability:

The 220 is almost a complete package, an all-rounder to put it subtly. On the broader scheme of things, you can take this bike and go anywhere. But just for the sake of the review let’s break it up.

City:A good city ride, but on the heavier side, make maneuverability a bit of a concern if you are on the shorter side in height, the front end is much heavier than you would like it to be, so in some cases you will find yourself hauling it with all your strength to make it go where you want it to go, but a little getting used to it all you need and you can flick it pretty much in a controllable manner. Though truth be said, the massive torque that can be used makes the heavy weight kinda not a problem at all, though the lighter 150 cc’s might be more flickable, it’s just not as much fun as the 220, I’m sure many would agree.

Highway:Mile cruncher it is, it’s been born for the highway roads, the comfort is just surprisingly good, find a sweet spot and your set for a full day of nonstop riding, and with a properly maintained engine, it’s just pure bliss. The seating position is very much comfortable for any kind of riding, it has ample cushion on the seat, not very stiff, not too spongy too, just the right amount. For the serious tourer’s out there, a little more padding on the seat can be a great boon.

Mile Cruncher

Mile Cruncher

Now a bit of the mildly technical stuff behind it being so good on the highway,the fairing does a great job taking the wind blast off the chest, the heavy weight gives more stability in crosswinds, the powerful mill makes long distance rides fun, and night riding is just too plain easy, visibility is not a concern at all, the best headlights any Indian manufacturer has to offer, both low and high beam are 55w bulbs, the low beam comes with projector setup, and high beam is a Ellipsoidal lamp which gives a pointed beam , so it gets even better.

DSC03692

Off-roading: Surprisingly enough, hold very good too, though the suspension is a big let down, the rear one’s specially, but standing on the foot-pegs can give a considerable difference there too. Considering the state of conditions in some places at Kerala, the off-road motocross roads are even better laid, and having ridden through these above mentioned roads, i can say, the bike managed pretty well, had only one case of busted fork oil seals, that too well after 50k on the ODO, so it’s safe to conclude , the 220 can handle off-road pretty well too.But a bit of tweak on the out dated rear shocks and frame is a welcome change any day.

One part that must be mentioned are the rims, the 17″ rims are very strong, it has not had any bends even in occasions of having fallen into potholes with a pillion too at speeds above 60 kmph and came out without any problems, and no damage to the tires too.

Maneuverability :

Now , let’s talk how good it is around a corner. Well, not so good. The tube type chassis has been outdated decades ago, and is not suited for cornering action. And add the heavy front to the equation it gets worse, a small calculation error and the front slides away and spits you out, the bike is merciless and unforgiving at that point, takes a leap of faith to really lean her out on the corner, though with proper technique and lots of guts, it can be done, trust me, have achieved quite good lean angles, and know a few who manage even more insane lean angle.  Another thing that weighs it down in this area is the suspension, the front is stiff enough and good to go, but the rear is a big let down, its just not good enough, be it for touring or taking corners, still does without much problem for touring, but I could definitely do with a better set. But when it comes to corners, the rear shocks give a big scare, the rear end is all over the place , something you don’t want while leaning in. Making it a stiffer setting also doesn’t help much, it just isn’t made for it, some say the Karizma or the RTR shocks are a good replacement for it, but have to test it to conform it.

So I guess, it’s safe to say that, the 220’s or the older gen Pulsar are not meant for cornering action, though they do take it with a great bit of skill and technique. The 200NS comes as a revelation here from the Bajaj stable,  it’s just mind blowing in the handling department.

Pulsar 220F

Pulsar 220F

Now, let’s quickly talk about maneuverability in city spaces and tight spots, in city traffic, initially the weight or big bike feel might raise doubts on it’s flickability , but once you get a hang of it, it becomes almost too easy to cut it out through heavy traffic. Handling that weight was never a big problem for me, unless I had to push the bike with my legs, as I am a bit short for the bike, both my legs are not completely planted to the ground, when the bike is standstill. That gives me a disadvantage on the weight part, but once i get moving , that problem vanishes. So I can safely say that city flickability is quite ok , and too easy for me with this bike, but that is not the case with U turns or tight spots, the larger turning radius is the reason here, that and the weight for short riders can be a problem while taking U-turns.Next , let’s talk Tires.

Tyre:

When it comes to the rubber, we have a few option here, which can make the bike more grippy , responsive and more fun to lean in to a corner.
The stock bike comes with stock MRF Zapper FS tire at front and similar one(forgot the model name) of zapper at the rear. Those are somewhat of a hard compound, they give good grip in dry conditions and Ok-ish grip in wet conditions, had used that one only until the stock tires gave in, then i shifted to the MRF Zapper Vyde (120/80/17) at rear as compared to the stock option(120/90/17). The front tire was retained as it is at 90/90/17.

The MRF Zapper Vyde

The MRF Zapper Vyde

Side View

Side View

And with this change the bike just turned out to be more fun, the Zapper Vyde, is a softer compound rubber, so grips more, and has a more rounder profile than the stock tire, so in appearance looks not as beefy as the stock tires, though the cross section size is the same, and the ride height is lowered a tad bit.But the grip of this tire is just marvelous in both wet and dry conditions, amazing traction  have lost the rear only 2-3 time till now with this tire(been using the same one for last 2 changes, so totally i’m running on my 3rd set of Zapper Vyde) and those were very much controllable slides, making it kinda fun.

Though it is a softer compound  it is not prone to much punctures, in my time of 60,000 kms on this bike, i had only a single puncture till date, and trust me , the bike has seen the worst possible terrains and filthy littered roads that one can find here in Kerala. But it does come with a small disadvantage, it wears off faster than the stock rubber, understandable since it uses a more softer compound of rubber than the stock, but when comparing with the kind of grip and fun this tire provides, it’s totally worth it.

P.S: The Zapper Vyde costs about 200-300 more than the stock option.

So my advice for MRF users would be, get the Zapper Vyde for the rear when going in for a change, keep the front stock as it serves pretty good, there are other options for the front tire too, feel free to experiment and if possible do leave a feedback here, so that perhaps i can try a change too.

Now, let me get to a part on which a lot of people ask me about, when they see the mileage i have put up with this bike. “Have I done any kind of Engine rebuilds / works to keep it running this far ?”

Engine Works History

As of till date, the engine head has been opened only 3 times,  First time was at 25,000 kms to get the de-carbonizing done, then next was to replace the rockers, but the mechanic had failed to realize that the cam-shaft was damaged , that in-turn gave rise to the rockers failing again and head had to be opened for another change of rockers and cam-shaft. The cam shaft gave way at about 45k kms and the clutch plates at about 47k kms.  So the only time the head was opened was when there was a need of change in parts at the right time. Apart from that the engine is untouched and not modded in any other way, it speaks in great volumes about the reliability of this Bajaj product. And also proves if maintained properly, a bike as “less” refined as a Bajaj can last this long considering the abuse it has taken in a short span of time.  Now at 60,000 kms the bike is going to go for another de-carbonizing and possibly a timing chain replacement.

Now, another small topic, after riding the bike for quite some time, it’s natural to feel bored with the bike’s stock performance and some might wan’t to mod the bike to make things a bit more interesting. For which there are quite some options, but modding comes with it’s risk. After much searching I changed my exhaust to a Race concepts Free Flow Exhaust provided by Race Concepts. Have been using it for nearly the last 30,000 kms and riding the bike with it has become much more fun, have also done a detailed review of the same, if you wish to know more on that respect, click here.

Conclusion 

After almost 3 years of ownership with this beautiful machine, I can say that, Bajaj has done a great job with the 220, a leader in it’s class for quite a few years, before it got outdated, but still packs enough punch to kick some serious ass out there..!! It’s a great bike, great power, great comfort, apt for long rides, but also could do with some better shocks, a better frame , but hey, no bike is perfect.  Yet still, many of the short comings have been rectified with the new flagship model 200NS, but of-course which is a naked bike.

:-D

😀

Pulsar 220F

Pulsar 220F

In all fairness, I would love to see a new bike from Bajaj which carries the 220 DNA with more attention to a few aspects like Suspension, Better Chassis, a 6th cog for cruising mode and a more powerful mill would be icing on the cake.Then Bajaj being Bajaj , a Kickass pricing and there you have an almost perfect bike for Indian roads. Hope the time is not too far away for this wish to be full filled.

Update : And the bike we have been waiting for is here. The Pulsar 200AS.

So, I guess it’s time to wind up the review here, I am certain I might have missed some aspect here and there, after-all clearing all grounds is a rather tough and time consuming job. So if you find some aspect that i have missed here and want to know about it , do leave me a feedback in the comments section and i will surely get back to you with the answer, or you can contact us at wheelsnshields@gmail.com.

Cheers

Ride Safe

Krishna
Wheels’N’Shields

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308 responses to “1000 days of Pulsar 220F(Long Term Review , 60,000 kms)

  1. Is eurogrip tyre for pulsar 220 stock is good or mrf nylogrip stock tyre ???? As I heard more negative to eurogrip !!!! And planning to buy another bike from pulsar line up!!!!!!!!!! Pls get me the solution!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  2. i am using a 2012 bajaj pulsar 220f for work every day in south africa i ride this bike hard every day and not a problem at all never failed me once i do 65km a day no heavy vibration goes into neutral and first gear like butter no ellectronic failures it now has 24000 on the clock NEVER do i take the bike above 9000rpm NEVER use high revs in first gear but do take it to 9000 revs in last gear never ride it in on a low speed or low rpm,All i can say is what a bike to ride Its just breath taking for such a small bike auto choke working 100%

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  3. sir,
    I would like to buy a used pulsar 220 (not 2008 model fi ). i have been using Honda unicorn for more than a couple of year,and it had not made any trouble so far. so while comparing with unicorn what would be its maintenance cost , handling ,high speed stability and breaking
    Now i would like to know about the points to be checked before buying the above referred model
    what is the difference between pulsar 220 F and 220 S ?
    what kmpl mileage would a 2010-2014 model show
    I would also like to know about the price range for a secondhand one between 2010-2013 now i got an offer of a 2011 last model run 45000 km and price 45000 & 2010 model 20000 km run price b/w 45000 which of this is better
    i got a rumour of having silencer complaint
    awaiting for your helpful reply….

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    • I wouldnt compare a unicorn and a 220.
      But to answer your queries.
      Maintainence cost can be kept minimum if you are careful. spares are cheap and service centers in surplus, handling can be not so as expected as a honda..the chassis is outdated and doesnt like being thrown into the corners much, high speed it can go upto 130 without breaking a sweat and is stable even at those speeds in straight line or when touring,front break is fine being steel braided,back is a bit of a concern but nothing major.
      220f is faired version while 220s is bikini fairing only.
      I am not aware of the resale prices. So i cannot comment on that.
      Yes ,the silencer problem is present in a lot of cases,then again it isnt a case that persists for everybody. A rattelling sound is there in models over 2 years old, solution of which is explained in the review.

      Cheers.

      Like

    • Do nnot buy a used pulsar 220.. Am dying mentaining mine. Electrical failures, engine got seized, petrol tank leaks water in, engine oil forever leaking.. It’s just one nightmare for me. I bought it @ 28k kms in Chennai for 35k. Have spent about 26 k more on it till today. Have pushed it for kilo. Eye’s together.. Sad vehicle

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      • Downgrading a vehicle just because of mistakes you failed to see when buying it isn’t a good advice to give others.
        While selecting a second hand vehicles there are many things to be checked, including service history of the said bike and consulting it with a trusting and well educated mechanic.

        Cheers

        Like

  4. altering sprocket on a 220f will increase speed but put strain on clutch.the 220f pulsar have only 5 gears so to make up for the 6th gear i made the front sprocket one tooth bigger and the back sprocket 2 teeth smaller.

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  5. three doubts regarding my 220S.
    1. which oil grade is better for long rides. after showroom service, the oil filled by them seems to have evaporated after a bangalore kollam trip. 100% engine oil got reduced to 75% or maybe even less. will there be a problem with my cylinder head o smthing.
    2. There seems to be a initial missing with my 220 sometimes when i start from parking or other place in 1st gear. sometimes it seems perfect.
    3. i changed my chain sprocket and just rode 1500km maybe but when i keep the vehicle in a center stand and throttle in the 5th gear the back sprocket looks wobbly. will there be any problem.

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    • 1) Use semi-synthetic or Fully synthetic oil when it comes to long rides. The motul 5100(SS) or the Motul 7100(FS) should do. Make sure the grade of the oil is 20W50.

      2)The missing you feel could be carb tuning issue. I cannot say for sure without getting a feel of it.

      3)Get a mechanic to check the mounting point of the sprockets, If it is loose obviously there is a problem. If not check the setting of the rear wheel and check if it is tightened properly.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe

      Like

  6. Hey,
    Very nice and detailed review.
    I am looking out for a new touring/daily commute/family bike and have short-listed P220 and 200 NS. I found that 200 fits perfectly however 200NS have all the improvements so still confused.
    What is your take on P220 and 200NS?

    Like

    • My take on the 200 ns is that it is a far more refined bike than the 220 in many ways.
      The engine and gearbox is much refined and smoother, therefore making it a very smooth, the handling is many folds better and the suspension and braking is also a plus point. Thereby making it a sensible choice to choose the ns over the 220.

      In the current situation by all means the ns is a better bike , but the 220 even with its shortcomings due to lack of updations is not far behind and can handle almost any terrain or any need with ease.

      Cheers
      Ride safe

      Like

  7. Hi… i hav been using 220 for more than 2 years nw…it has clokd 40000…but after a long journey recently the engine sound had changed totally….wat cud b the reason…

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  8. Past 3 yrs im useing p220 and just runed 26700km. Blindly I can say this machine is awsome and powerful. Honestly I can say that the fairing vibrations and rmv’s view are bad hope bajaj will fix these problems soon.

    Ride safe 🙂

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  9. i have purchased 220f today only..next week am going for a journey of about 150 km is their any prblm if am going with that byk within one week of purchase about this much distance…give me SME sme tips for getting good mileage and safeguard the engine from starting ride onwards….

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  10. Heĺlo
    Wat brand engine oil shud i use on my pulsar 220 for reduced vibration and smoother engine perfomance.does using motul oil wear my engine gasket more frequently.

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  11. hai I am using 220f pulsar for 1 yer and it reached 35000 km and I must say its an awasome bike if u do the maintance correctly its performance will b good ….
    oil chang at 2000km
    resettig the front and back tyers and breakes and tighting the bolts in every 10000 km the bike will b a beast tip speed of my bike is tht I reached is 134kmph and its roaring and keep going up 🙂

    AWSOME RIDE

    Like

    • Omkar , I have had the bike for 3 years and rode over 80k kms on it.
      The bike is probably the most versatile bike out there in the current market, but it has to be said that it is pretty outdated in technology aspect for today.
      We have a lot more bikes with better loaded features but not as versatile to ride in almost any conditions.
      So whether to get this bike or not depends solely on your usage.
      As far as mileage is concerned, i got a consistent 40-44kmpl from this bike.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  12. I’ve pulsar 220 which i bought in july 2013. Till date 14k done nd m not facing any major issues in this fantastic machine. M Getting d mileage of 34+ on d busiest roads of delhi. All services are done by bajaj service centre. One minor issue m feeling constantly dat after driving at 50+ front fairing vibrates a lot. I went to d service centre for this issue nd they told that for that we’ve to open d whole fairing nd it would take a lot time..so plz come when u hv spare time…meanwhile what should i do cz last service was done about a month ago.

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  13. Hi,
    i’ve ridden my 220 for about 5000km, i’ve purchased it in july 2014… It’s making a rubbing sound in 2nd, 3rd & 4th gear… I’m afraid to open the engine so soon… Can u suggest somethin on this please…

    Another thing… Apart from stock exhaust, which exhaust shall i use in my 220? In your review you’ve mentioned that you’ve installed racing custom exhaust, how much does it cost & is there any other option apart from that???

    Last question 🙂

    i want to increase pick-up of my bike, i’ve got suggestion to change the spark plug, some ngk spark plug… What would u recommend on upgrading pick-up… And apart from mrf vyed, do u have any other suggestions for tires…

    Plz reply…. Thank You…

    Like

    • The rubbing sound might be the chain rubbing on the chain slider, if you hear some kind of metallic clank only you need to worry about opening up the engine, or if there is any drop in oil level or some drastic performance loss.

      I would prefer to keep the bike in its stock form for as long as possible, modding is a whole new world into which you should enter only if you have a proper understanding of the same. Race concepts provides custom exhausts, price and other details you can get from them.
      Changing spark plug won’t give you more pickup.
      For which you can play around with the sprocketing.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe

      Like

  14. hi read all this review of urs and i too going to buy this man 220 for me…but please say me a clear idea. how to maintain the mileage…

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  15. I have a problem with my pulsar 220f 2014 model.It was working perfectly.Yesterday i started my bike and raced up to maximum rpm in center stand mode.Suddenly bike went off.Its not working now.

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    • Hai Jerin,
      Sorry to hear that.
      The rpm should never be increased suddenly like that ,especially on a cold engine on first start of the day.
      Tow the bike to svc and let them open it up. Let’s just hope it’s not a seized engine.

      Like

  16. Hey …. my 220 pulsar year 2012 model its vibrant ing in the speed of 80km only … any solution Haaa…. plz plz plz plz reply

    Like

  17. engine sound ‘ll coming … yar what can I do … my bike is vibrating … in speed of 80km only nd fairing also not coming … plz give any solution engine sound Chala asthundhi … what can i do now …. ???? plz help me

    Like

  18. I am using motul 7100 oil for my pulsar , I usually don’t rev hard, now its 5.6k kms since I changed my oil. What should be the drain period. ?

    Like

  19. Bro my high beam i way so high and it is like sky beam now.. is it possible to adjust it by myself.. ? can you tell me what exactly the knob is like?

    Like

    • Hi Thuhin,
      Yes, i can help you with that. You can reach the knobs for the high beam and low beam from within under the place where the front numberplates are mounted. You cannot see it , but you can reach it with your hands.
      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

      • yeah i got the low beam knob… i guess the high beam knob may on top.. of that.. is it possible to adjust the high beam without removing the fairing? and also the low beam knob is tight

        Like

        • Yes, those knobs if you can reach them will help in adjusting the height. And yes it will also be a bit tight, no other option but to try and loosen it up. It gets easier if you can remove the fairing, but it is a much more tedious task.
          Another method is to remove the tank which is relatively easier than removing the fairing, but reaching through underneath the fairing usually is more than enough for it.

          Like

  20. Hey brother an awsmm and the most informative of reviews ive ever read about the 220F. Ive just bought one in Nov 2014 and honestly i got faith in the bike only after reading this one..

    Now u wudnt mind helping me a bit …. So i got this latest 220F with the all new color scheme model indeed dressed to thrill..rode 200 km on the 1st day itself to get it to home…went all fine , after 600 odd kms, i had to let it rest for 10 days as i was out of town . and when i come back it just did not start… and yes i live in shimla and it snowed and freezed here during the bike was not used…i had it covered… trust me i spent 2 hrs to spark it up and finally had to push it down at 5th gear on a downhill to get the engine rolling… i kno the cold weather and non usage affects the ignition but still it is a new bride..:p

    all good after that , 1st service all done ..rode it well ..have clocked 1200 km …but again out of town once again and this time it will be around 2 months of non use after i get back to my bike…already having horror dreams if it ill start or not… a kick wud b a lot handy but since it is not there…any suggestions that might help me waking her up…and some non use maintainance tips please…

    Like

    • Hey Ayush,
      i am glad that my review helped in making a good choice for you.
      Now yes , there are a few things you can do to make sure that the bike is kept idle properly.
      1. Keep the bike on main stand, make sure that that the tyres does not touch the ground.
      2. Empty the tank of all the petrol, make it as dry as you can, storing petrol in tank over long days without any movement makes it evaporate and form as gunk and block fuel lines.
      3.Remove the battery terminals from the battery, this helps in preventing the battery from fully discharging at a fast rate.
      Last, keep the bike well covered and safe from other external elements.

      Or you could just do another thing, if you have someone who can crank the bike up every few days and probably run about 1-2 kms each time the bike is started and then, it’ll all be fine.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  21. yep i believe there is some fuel in the tank though it was in resserve..is it possible to empty out all of it ( including reserve.) ? and also the auto choke is the main problem of what i make of it bcuz it does not sense ignition easily due to exteme cold…

    Like

  22. HelLo m d ownr of 220f n i want 2 chnge d exhaust n plz suzzst me d best exhaust fr 220f abt in 10000₹ n plz tel me abt daytoNA dargex? It’s bettr fr 220f yes or nO? PLZ help me

    Like

    • Hi Pushpanshu,
      There are not many options for aftermarket exhaust for the Pulsar series,
      the one’s that are there are like Race concepts exhaust and some other locally made exhaust. I have used only the RC exhaust, you can find the review of that in this site itself.
      Daytona Dragrex is tailor made for the Yamaha FZ and R15 only, it is not suited for the 220 and you shouldn’t try to fit it on.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

      • Thnx admin n tel me oNe thIng my frnd have 200ns n he also planing 2 fitd daytona ex. N u tel d daytoNA ex. ONly made fr yamaha bikes bt let’s supose daytoNa fittd in 200ns dan any harmful eFfct fr. Ex. Low perfrmance,average n wtevr efct .. Plz suzest me cz stil m felng vry afraid of daytoNA ex. When u say it iz oNly made fr yamaha bikes lol 😀 😛 btw i love daytoNA sound :-* 😀

        Like

        • It is a long topic, free flow exhausts are tailor made to suit each vehicle and models, the measurement of the pipe length, inner pipe length, the header pipe diameter, the mounting bolts and points all are different for each bike. Chances are just from the mounting point itself the daytona exhausts might not suit the pulsar series, the way the exhaust pipes are routed.
          The negative effects of using pipes that do not suit the bike is low performance and bike running lean and early wear and tear of engine components.
          So i would advice against it, but you are free to try what you like.

          Cheers
          Ride Safe

          Like

  23. Thanx admin fr ur valuable advice yl n u chnge my coNcept abt daytoNa thnx alot yl :-* 😉 n plz suggest me smal exhaust fr 200ns n size smthng 10 to 15 inch ..n price smthng 10 to 12 thousand ..

    Like

  24. Hi! would like to know more about engine decarbonisation. My pulsar has clocked 23k. How Would decarbonising help in performance or any other gains? Is the piston head cleaned or anything else along with it?

    Like

    • Usually piston head,engine head is cleaned and valves are re-seated during a engine de-carb ,it doesn’t increase performance over stock . it just returns performance to as it was initially when the bike was new. All that is done removal of waste carbon deposits.

      Like

  25. Hello,
    Admin can u suggest me for change in airfilter as im using k&n since a long time, bike tikd 29k nw,what are da intervals to clean airfilter, im a speed lover, I ride my beast nt less then 100 evrytym, engine oil started leaking from down portion of engine, nt mre bt can c drops evrytym, is it necessary to open engine??..And chain sounds started coming whn I ride,admin kindly give a solution. .
    Thank you.
    Srikant

    Like

    • I would not suggest any aftermarket air filters if that is the only mod done on the bike. So my suggestion would be switch back to stock.
      And for the engine oil leak, get it checked by a mechanic, i cannot speculate anything without seeing it for myself.
      And as far as chain sound goes., get the chain tightened. and lubed that should solve it, unless your chain has reached the end of its life then, you might have to go in for a new chain sprocket set.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  26. Hi , very detailed review . I’m a dtsi 180 ( avenger) owner . The bike is about 9 years old . It has just done about 22K kms. The service centre fellas say that the block has to be replace and the piston .. I doubt that . They are trying to make money . How can I diagnose an engine block/piston problem ?

    Like

      • There is some drop in oil level ( I have to top up about 100 ml in 15 days ) but there is no noticable white exhaust smoke when revving . Will it suffice to change the piston rings instead of the whole block and piston ? thanks in advance . — ozzy

        Like

        • Some drop in oil level over 3k kms- 4k kms is quite acceptable, i’m talking in the range of 10-20ml.
          Changing piston rings alone is not the ideal solution, because they have not worn out in the same way, the piston block will have worn out much more than the rings and a tight fit might not be possible.

          The piston bore kit of the 220 comes at less than 3k , so shouldn’t be a very costly repair anyway.

          Cheers
          Ride Safe
          Krishna

          Like

  27. Pingback: Pulsar RS200, a new beginning for the Indian motorcycling scene ? | Wheels'n'Shields·

  28. My 220f was beating top speed of 145 till last month.. but i dnt knw why she iz nt crossing 127 nw.. wht is th problem.. engine blocked or what ? Plz help..

    Like

  29. Hi krishna..I bought it on 20th feb and My p220 reads 1250 on the odo now..It has been run-in quite well with gear shifts in the range of 3-4k rpm in the first 500 kms and then progressively increasing them to 5-6k rpm. Max Speed I rode it to was 75 kmph. The bike runs buttery smooth, no vibs while riding it properly with good gear shifts, has no starting trouble, accelerates pretty fast and is a pleasure to ride overall.I have a query though. When I try to max out gears ie. Increasing the throttle beyond 6k rpm in 1st/2nd gear the bike starts to vibrate a lot especially on the footpegs , near the tank(not the fairing vibration as found on many p220s) and also the front visor. It’s sound also changes dramatically and sounds as if It’s hurting the bike(This is the first bike I am riding so maybe I’m not used to that sound and havent rode any other bikes thoroughly as such ). Is this normal and should I rev it further to achieve the top speed or is there some fault in the machine ? Thanks and Regards…
    PS : As I had to bring the bike from my hometown to pune, I changed it’s engine oil on 250 kms itself as opposed to the 1000 kms recommended oil change. Refilled it with Bajaj 10000 semi synthetic 20w50 grade oil. So can this vibration thing be a problem due to the oil ? And If so Should I opt for MOTUL 5100 15w50 semi synthetic oil next time as it is the perfect oil for p220 recommended by many ardent pulsarmaniacs ?

    Like

    • Vibration can be also because of loose parts, just as a part of caution, tighten up the bolts and then see.
      Then from what i can see , the Bajaj oil isn’t helping. Since first oil change was at 2050 and then till now you are running on the bajaj oil, the engine oil used is the same as when you did run-in. So it has much lesser life span than normal running.
      So do change the oil once more, use 5100 this time and check it out.
      To sum it up
      1. Tighten all nuts and bolts. don’t overtighten it.
      2. Change oil to Motul 5100

      Do come back and tell if this helped.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Liked by 1 person

  30. Thanks a lot mate…Will follow up for sure…Yday I rode a friend’s p220 same model..same version…He has clocked 3800 on the odo..The vibrations were absent on the bike..He had changed the oil on 1000 kms as per the servicing norms…So I am planning to do the same..I think it’s the run-in period’s oil which is the culprit here…Just wanted to know, If I use motul 5100, am I not eligible for the warranty of the vehicle ? as it is mentioned in the manual..And also do the p220 engines open up nicely(no vibs, performs better, smoother crusing rides) after 2000 kms on the odo which is the run-in eriod mentioned in the manual ?

    Like

  31. Pulasr 200 ns is awesome bike but it’s mileage is very low compared to karizma r, pulsar 220f and pulsar RS 200 So, RS 200 should be preffered first.

    Like

  32. instead of replacing a bad motul engine oil.its best to change old engine oil with mobil 1 racing 4T 10w-40 which comes upto 9000kms

    Like

    • No engine oil is going to last without losing its property fro 9k kms. Even if its FS, the best you can pull is till 6-7k, after which it is always advised to change to fresh oil.

      Like

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