1000 days of Pulsar 220F(Long Term Review , 60,000 kms)

It’s been nearly 3 years with the Pulsar 220F. And 60,000 Kms later I am all set to write down a review of this wonderful bike, that changed the face of performance biking in India.

The ODO at 60,007 clicks

The ODO at 60,007 clicks

The 220 was launched in 2007 , This bike with its sporty looks and killer performance easily stole the limelight and redefined performance biking in India. But it came at a Price. So naturally, it wasn’t a commodity that every person could dream off. Nonetheless, It was and still is a wonderful machine, I know a few friends who still use this machine with over 90k clicks on the ODO and the machine is still healthy as a horse, which easily destroys the Taboo, that the pulsar engine lasts only for a maximum of 2 years and nothing above 25k kms. It’s true, there is a taboo that the pulsars don’t last much long.

The Bajaj 220F(DTS-i) which was launched in 2009 with a killer price tag, mainly aimed at increasing sales and bringing the performance biking within reach to the common man. But the steps taken by Bajaj was a unique one, they stepped back in terms of technology, they gave the 220 a carburetor instead of the existing Fuel-injection. But with this change they were able to reduce cost, increase power (21PS),torque and mileage , which made it a instant success within the masses. The aggressive pricing being the main attraction among the youth and growing breed of Serious Performance biking community of India.

Now I got my Bike on March 2010. The parts that attracted me the most, the looks(I was a sucker for the twin projector headlights, the LED console), the touring friendly ergonomics, the power and torque and then the killer price tag. All in all it was the perfect vehicle, Complete Value for Money product and it was still a rare machine in my locality, all the more reason to opt for this bike.

In all it's Glory

In all it’s Glory

Graduating from a Yamaha CRUX , it was quite the upgrade one could ask for, even though the Pulsar are known for their raw power and hard to tame character, I didn’t face much problem getting used to the bike, The bike’s engine was broken in in a progressive manner, not the text book slow run-in method. It’s more of a mixture of the conventional break in and the Motoman break-in method. Much importance was not given to the speed , but rather the RPM was kept in check during the initial 1000 Kms. The first 500kms were ridden within 4k rpm gear shifts, with occasional riding up-to 5k rpm and this limit was gradually increased as the miles kept building. In the end, what I got is a perfectly broken-in engine , where the parts are set in correctly and a smooth engine functioning is obtained.

Initial review was like that of any excited rider who graduated to a powerful machine. The comparisons were based with the CRUX I had ridden the acceleration was a massive boost, and the throttle had to be handled carefully, more when the bike crossed 6k band on the RPM, that’s when all the horses are being felt being transmitted to the rear wheel. If not handled carefully it will definitely catch you by surprise.
The Mid-range torque is something to crave for, the raw , unrefined power could be really felt there, along with vibrations from the bike, yes, it does have some vibrations that can be felt directly to the rider.

After riding the bike for almost 3 years now, in every possible condition and terrain that Kerala has to offer , I can surely say, this is one reliable and value for money product. I wouldn’t say that the vehicle doesn’t comes with it’s fair share of problems, honestly it does have quite a number of problems, but the thing is , it’s quite manageable and that makes you understand the ride and respect it more. Here I’ll be listing out quite a few segments from my experience and the defects and its simple solutions too.

Design and Build quality

The bike is a looker, no doubt on that from my side. The quality of the plastic parts are also quite nice. They have lasted me for a long time, although I had changed the rear seat cowl about 5-6k Kms back as the screwing joints had broken and I had no other option but to fix it, as it had started rattling at certain speeds . Then I had a problem of the rubber bushes that was supposed to keep the side panels tight in their position falling off when ever I removed the side panels for regular cleaning of battery terminals and air filter.  Apart from that there wasn’t a problem I had faced with the fiber part.

Coming to design, one thing that I felt very irritating was the RVM’s. I feel very uncomfortable if I can’t get a good view of what is happening behind me. They are by far the worst RVM’s on any Indian bike, it’s practically useless, unless one adjust it after numerous number of corrective positions, even then adjusting it is also a tough job , unlike normal RVM’s this has a completely different setup and once the position has been fiddled with, which always happens when parking in public spaces, the whole RVM tends to get loose and start changing position on it’s own while riding, rendering it completely useless. Somewhere along the line I did get used to it, a solution i would like to propose would be to get the RTR RVM’s fitted, its not a direct fit, some welding work is involved, but it definitely gives more rear view than the stock one’s do.

RVM's , could do with a better design and placement

RVM’s , could do with a better design and placement

Now getting to the fairing, almost all the 220 users will vouch on this, the dreaded fairing vibration, with increase in use-age the fairing starts to vibrate and create distractions while riding, there was almost no solution to this problem, even I faced this problem for quite sometime, then I head of a solution, a simple ,yet effective solution. Using of Double sided tape while fitting the fairing back. This almost made the fairing vibration to non existence. Costing just about Rs200/- with labor charge , it was a cheap fix. And moreover the newer machines comes with the double taped form so, Bajaj has taken care of this issue.

So , areas of Improvement in this front are : Better RVM’s and maybe a more permanent or standard fix for the fairing vibration problems.

Engine Refinement & Performance :

Bajaj is known for many things ,but engine refinement is not one of those , excluding the 200NS that is,which is a mutant pulsar and is a league apart, in the sense that the older pulsar characteristic is no longer present, in a good way mostly.

The Bajaj 220F has a much more refined engine than the other pulsar’s though, I can say for sure as I have test rode every other pulsar. But it isn’t that re fineness as for a Honda or a Yamaha. My Crux used to run more refined on really old engine oil while the Pulsar would be rough and clunky with just barely 1000 Kms on some bad oil.

So here goes, the engine is a 220 cc mill, churns out 21PS of power.The refinement is quite good and acceptable, not much engine vibrations, but with a new engine you can never be so sure, during the break in period it would be always like an angry teenager, rough, clunky,over heating and all. Once the engine had settled in, it was all good and peaceful, but if the oil is out , then the engine doesn’t work well.
Not exactly a bad thing, but that’s how the Bajaj mill’s behaves. So my point being, the Bajaj engines in comparison might be less refined than a Yamaha or a Honda.

DSC04536

The refinement of the engine is mainly maintained by using the correct grade of oil , draining at the correct time. I have tried on a variety of Engine oil, a mixture of a few different ones too and have reached at a conclusion on what runs best on the Pulsar 220, or any pulsars for that matter.So basically, you change the engine oil religiously according to your usage pattern and drain interval and your engine remains healthy and will last long.

So now, let’s talk engine oil.
I have used the Bajaj Oil 10000, Motul Mineral, Motul SS 5100, Motul FS 7100, Motul 300V, Castrol Activ 4T, and a few other brands, don’t remember the names, they weren’t any good anyway, so that’s lesser work to do.So below is the review on each oil that I have used and can recall.

Bajaj 10,000 – They claim it to be a “Semi Synthetic”(SS) oil, and that it lasts for 10,000 kms. That is just false advertising. It hardly holds together for 2000kms in mixed riding conditions in my case and many other users can vouch for that too. The first 1000 Kms it performs well, then it’s downhill in a jiffy.

Bajaj D|TSi oil, the “10,000kms” drain interval oil 😛

Motul Mineral – Just like any other mineral oil. Drain interval of 2000 Kms and your engine won’t complain.

Motul Mineral

Motul Mineral

Motul 5100 SS- The best oil for Pulsar 220. The grade 15W50. This is the perfect oil at the perfect price. The reason i say so is that, apart from the fact that, unless you are into racing or full time high revving use, the Motul SS and the Motul FS doesn’t feel any different and the FS costs a lot more than the SS. The Motul SS retails at Rs 495/- per liter.I maintained a drain interval of 4k and the oil had still some life left in it. So my vote goes for Motul 5100 15W40. If you can source 20w50, then it’d be even better..!!

Motul SS

Motul 7100 FS – Great oil, but didn’t find it much different than the 5100. Costs about Rs7xx per liter.

Motul 7100 FS

Motul 300V – Great oil, the best for high revving action, the oil holds on for long, but it’s at the costlier side, nearly a 1000rs for one liter of this oil. It can last for well over 5k kms in normal usage  But the 300v is known for inducing slight head leakage, not in a significant way, but still its a bother getting the gaskets changed just because of that.

Motul 300v FS(Double Ester)

Castrol Activ 4t – Mineral oil, to sum it up, not worth it, the engine gets rough all too soon than you expect and gear shifts are in no way smoother. My opinion would be to stay away from this one.

So choose wisely the blood for your bike’s heart and you have yourself a refined engine right there.

Tip: During winter time, to avoid cold starts, use xW40 grade oil, no cold start issues, but then try to avoid long distance rides at a single stretch, the engine gets hotter much faster with a xW40 grade oil.

All that apart, the engine does hold on pretty good for long enough, it has had the abuse it can go through, almost all conditions, all terrains and all riding patterns, and it’s holding good. The only engine components I have changed as yet are Clutch plate at 47k kms , cam shaft and rocker arms(had to change cause of a busted cam shaft) both at 47k itself. Rest all the engine components are running stock, and not giving any complains as of yet.

A engine de-carbonizing was done at 25k. Most of the service after that was done at home by me, nothing beats working on your own bike on a lazy morning day.

Other parts changed are regular consumable parts like
1.Chain & Sprocket set, each set lasted me about 20-25k kms with not so regular maintenance. Read this for more information about proper maintenance tips.
2.Brake Pads set, front and rear, front pads lasted more than rear, though I use rear break very less, something to do with quality of the spare I guess.Note: Mine is the first gen KBX unit.Which can be upgraded to Bybre one’s which are said to be giving better feedback, but honestly, I find the KBX on mine to be working upto my satisfaction, having saved my skin more often than I would like to remember.

Let’s move on here, the next part I would like to focus on is Rideability.

Rideability:

The 220 is almost a complete package, an all-rounder to put it subtly. On the broader scheme of things, you can take this bike and go anywhere. But just for the sake of the review let’s break it up.

City:A good city ride, but on the heavier side, make maneuverability a bit of a concern if you are on the shorter side in height, the front end is much heavier than you would like it to be, so in some cases you will find yourself hauling it with all your strength to make it go where you want it to go, but a little getting used to it all you need and you can flick it pretty much in a controllable manner. Though truth be said, the massive torque that can be used makes the heavy weight kinda not a problem at all, though the lighter 150 cc’s might be more flickable, it’s just not as much fun as the 220, I’m sure many would agree.

Highway:Mile cruncher it is, it’s been born for the highway roads, the comfort is just surprisingly good, find a sweet spot and your set for a full day of nonstop riding, and with a properly maintained engine, it’s just pure bliss. The seating position is very much comfortable for any kind of riding, it has ample cushion on the seat, not very stiff, not too spongy too, just the right amount. For the serious tourer’s out there, a little more padding on the seat can be a great boon.

Mile Cruncher

Mile Cruncher

Now a bit of the mildly technical stuff behind it being so good on the highway,the fairing does a great job taking the wind blast off the chest, the heavy weight gives more stability in crosswinds, the powerful mill makes long distance rides fun, and night riding is just too plain easy, visibility is not a concern at all, the best headlights any Indian manufacturer has to offer, both low and high beam are 55w bulbs, the low beam comes with projector setup, and high beam is a Ellipsoidal lamp which gives a pointed beam , so it gets even better.

DSC03692

Off-roading: Surprisingly enough, hold very good too, though the suspension is a big let down, the rear one’s specially, but standing on the foot-pegs can give a considerable difference there too. Considering the state of conditions in some places at Kerala, the off-road motocross roads are even better laid, and having ridden through these above mentioned roads, i can say, the bike managed pretty well, had only one case of busted fork oil seals, that too well after 50k on the ODO, so it’s safe to conclude , the 220 can handle off-road pretty well too.But a bit of tweak on the out dated rear shocks and frame is a welcome change any day.

One part that must be mentioned are the rims, the 17″ rims are very strong, it has not had any bends even in occasions of having fallen into potholes with a pillion too at speeds above 60 kmph and came out without any problems, and no damage to the tires too.

Maneuverability :

Now , let’s talk how good it is around a corner. Well, not so good. The tube type chassis has been outdated decades ago, and is not suited for cornering action. And add the heavy front to the equation it gets worse, a small calculation error and the front slides away and spits you out, the bike is merciless and unforgiving at that point, takes a leap of faith to really lean her out on the corner, though with proper technique and lots of guts, it can be done, trust me, have achieved quite good lean angles, and know a few who manage even more insane lean angle.  Another thing that weighs it down in this area is the suspension, the front is stiff enough and good to go, but the rear is a big let down, its just not good enough, be it for touring or taking corners, still does without much problem for touring, but I could definitely do with a better set. But when it comes to corners, the rear shocks give a big scare, the rear end is all over the place , something you don’t want while leaning in. Making it a stiffer setting also doesn’t help much, it just isn’t made for it, some say the Karizma or the RTR shocks are a good replacement for it, but have to test it to conform it.

So I guess, it’s safe to say that, the 220’s or the older gen Pulsar are not meant for cornering action, though they do take it with a great bit of skill and technique. The 200NS comes as a revelation here from the Bajaj stable,  it’s just mind blowing in the handling department.

Pulsar 220F

Pulsar 220F

Now, let’s quickly talk about maneuverability in city spaces and tight spots, in city traffic, initially the weight or big bike feel might raise doubts on it’s flickability , but once you get a hang of it, it becomes almost too easy to cut it out through heavy traffic. Handling that weight was never a big problem for me, unless I had to push the bike with my legs, as I am a bit short for the bike, both my legs are not completely planted to the ground, when the bike is standstill. That gives me a disadvantage on the weight part, but once i get moving , that problem vanishes. So I can safely say that city flickability is quite ok , and too easy for me with this bike, but that is not the case with U turns or tight spots, the larger turning radius is the reason here, that and the weight for short riders can be a problem while taking U-turns.Next , let’s talk Tires.

Tyre:

When it comes to the rubber, we have a few option here, which can make the bike more grippy , responsive and more fun to lean in to a corner.
The stock bike comes with stock MRF Zapper FS tire at front and similar one(forgot the model name) of zapper at the rear. Those are somewhat of a hard compound, they give good grip in dry conditions and Ok-ish grip in wet conditions, had used that one only until the stock tires gave in, then i shifted to the MRF Zapper Vyde (120/80/17) at rear as compared to the stock option(120/90/17). The front tire was retained as it is at 90/90/17.

The MRF Zapper Vyde

The MRF Zapper Vyde

Side View

Side View

And with this change the bike just turned out to be more fun, the Zapper Vyde, is a softer compound rubber, so grips more, and has a more rounder profile than the stock tire, so in appearance looks not as beefy as the stock tires, though the cross section size is the same, and the ride height is lowered a tad bit.But the grip of this tire is just marvelous in both wet and dry conditions, amazing traction  have lost the rear only 2-3 time till now with this tire(been using the same one for last 2 changes, so totally i’m running on my 3rd set of Zapper Vyde) and those were very much controllable slides, making it kinda fun.

Though it is a softer compound  it is not prone to much punctures, in my time of 60,000 kms on this bike, i had only a single puncture till date, and trust me , the bike has seen the worst possible terrains and filthy littered roads that one can find here in Kerala. But it does come with a small disadvantage, it wears off faster than the stock rubber, understandable since it uses a more softer compound of rubber than the stock, but when comparing with the kind of grip and fun this tire provides, it’s totally worth it.

P.S: The Zapper Vyde costs about 200-300 more than the stock option.

So my advice for MRF users would be, get the Zapper Vyde for the rear when going in for a change, keep the front stock as it serves pretty good, there are other options for the front tire too, feel free to experiment and if possible do leave a feedback here, so that perhaps i can try a change too.

Now, let me get to a part on which a lot of people ask me about, when they see the mileage i have put up with this bike. “Have I done any kind of Engine rebuilds / works to keep it running this far ?”

Engine Works History

As of till date, the engine head has been opened only 3 times,  First time was at 25,000 kms to get the de-carbonizing done, then next was to replace the rockers, but the mechanic had failed to realize that the cam-shaft was damaged , that in-turn gave rise to the rockers failing again and head had to be opened for another change of rockers and cam-shaft. The cam shaft gave way at about 45k kms and the clutch plates at about 47k kms.  So the only time the head was opened was when there was a need of change in parts at the right time. Apart from that the engine is untouched and not modded in any other way, it speaks in great volumes about the reliability of this Bajaj product. And also proves if maintained properly, a bike as “less” refined as a Bajaj can last this long considering the abuse it has taken in a short span of time.  Now at 60,000 kms the bike is going to go for another de-carbonizing and possibly a timing chain replacement.

Now, another small topic, after riding the bike for quite some time, it’s natural to feel bored with the bike’s stock performance and some might wan’t to mod the bike to make things a bit more interesting. For which there are quite some options, but modding comes with it’s risk. After much searching I changed my exhaust to a Race concepts Free Flow Exhaust provided by Race Concepts. Have been using it for nearly the last 30,000 kms and riding the bike with it has become much more fun, have also done a detailed review of the same, if you wish to know more on that respect, click here.

Conclusion 

After almost 3 years of ownership with this beautiful machine, I can say that, Bajaj has done a great job with the 220, a leader in it’s class for quite a few years, before it got outdated, but still packs enough punch to kick some serious ass out there..!! It’s a great bike, great power, great comfort, apt for long rides, but also could do with some better shocks, a better frame , but hey, no bike is perfect.  Yet still, many of the short comings have been rectified with the new flagship model 200NS, but of-course which is a naked bike.

:-D

😀

Pulsar 220F

Pulsar 220F

In all fairness, I would love to see a new bike from Bajaj which carries the 220 DNA with more attention to a few aspects like Suspension, Better Chassis, a 6th cog for cruising mode and a more powerful mill would be icing on the cake.Then Bajaj being Bajaj , a Kickass pricing and there you have an almost perfect bike for Indian roads. Hope the time is not too far away for this wish to be full filled.

Update : And the bike we have been waiting for is here. The Pulsar 200AS.

So, I guess it’s time to wind up the review here, I am certain I might have missed some aspect here and there, after-all clearing all grounds is a rather tough and time consuming job. So if you find some aspect that i have missed here and want to know about it , do leave me a feedback in the comments section and i will surely get back to you with the answer, or you can contact us at wheelsnshields@gmail.com.

Cheers

Ride Safe

Krishna
Wheels’N’Shields

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308 responses to “1000 days of Pulsar 220F(Long Term Review , 60,000 kms)

  1. Hi,

    Actually im buying a 2nd hand 220f of 2007 model. The bike has driven 25000 km till today.
    What all should i check in the bike before buying.
    The person using the bike says its mileage is nearly 40.

    Plz suggest.

    Like

    • 2007 model should be the Fi model i guess, the Carb version was from 2009.
      My suggestion would be, not to go for the deal. The reason being the 220 Fi was having a problematic fuel pump and the svc were just not equipped enough to solve those issues, they still are not. Getting spares will be a real headache too.
      So if i were you i would not consider the deal. Of course i have not seen or inspected the bike in person so taking a decision is totally upto your discretion.

      Like

  2. hey i am using motul 4t 5100 15w 50 in my pulsar 220 bt still my bike engine is overheating!! how can i solve this problem?? plz tell me

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    • The bike might be running a very lean setup, meaning more air and less fuel setting in the air fuel mixture, get it retuned by a mech and then have a go.

      I can only speculate sitting here without inspecting the bike, which might reveal more clues as to why the bike is behaving as such.

      Get the bike checked by a good mechanic to diagnose the problem.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  3. hey, I am on to buy pulsar 220 in next two months, so it would be good to have a pulsar 220 in my pocket at this tim or should go for some othw options ?

    Like

  4. Hi bro..I am riding a new 220F 2014 new colour model since Feb 2015. It has 1400 clocked on the odo. As I had to do a long run initially from my hometown(650 kms) I changed the engine oil with the bajaj one on odo reading 200 kms. Thereafter I rode the bike with small breaks after an hour or so at the speed of 60-75 max during that run. The engine felt quite smooth and heated less as compared to when it was brand new. The fist servicing was done but no oil was changed at 905 odo reading. However now when I try to rev it past 5k rpm it vibrates a lot(fairing and footpegs) and feels as if its begging for mercy to slow down. I know the official run-in period hasnt been completed yet(2000kms acc to the manual). I was advised to change the oil as that might be the culprit behind the vibs, as it is still running on the run-in period’s oil. Which oil should I go for ? My primary concern is getting a smooth and silky ride experience with almost no vibs at around 50-70 kmph speed. I dont race yet so acc n top sp are not my concern for the time being. I rode my friend’s same model 220f clocked at odo 3500 kms and it felt quite smooth(he had used bajaj 10000 ss oil itself). Is it because the bike had clocked more kms simply ? My riding style is amazingly good with gear shifts at 3.5-4 rpms, no hard revving, idling the engine daily for 1 min in the morning before going out and optimum clutch and brake use while riding at an average speed of 40 kmph with a 15 kms daily run . It returns an avg of 46.44 at the moment. Please reply asap. My 2nd free servicing is due soon. Sorry for the long message , I just wanted to provide you with all the info mate…:)

    Like

    • Sorry mate, but you should have changed the oil at 9xx kms itself, the oil is too old now i guess, fresh oil will make the engine much smoother, if possible go for the Motul 5100 oil.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Liked by 1 person

  5. Thanks a lot mate…You really are a saviour…I am gonna do it tomorrow itself…Just wanted to know whats the real difference felt while riding the 220f on a 5100 ss vs 7100 fs ? which one would you recommend at this stage of my bike I know you have vouched for the 5100 and i’Ll surely follow suit but just wanted to know the difference between the two ? Is it true that clutch slippage happens in 7100 ? If so how frequent is it ?

    Like

    • The difference is how long the oil can last and that too when subjected to high stress like in a high rev riding and such.
      In extreme conditions the 7100 fares better, but under normal riding conditions like which you explained the 5100 is much practical to have.

      Haven’t heard of clutch slippage with the 7100 , have heard of a few cases of gasket leaks with the 300v.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

    • Friend i just bought a new 220f and the aggency people told me not to drive more than 60km/hr ..so i wana confirm r they saying true…..

      Like

  6. Hey frnd. I wanted to buy pulsar 220F. So I jst wanted to ask u dat.. is it good or I shud go for some other. The thing is I liked the looks and evry thing of thing of this bike. Does it give any problem in future. Plz tell. Plz tell me the average for this bike when its new and whn after 1 yrs. I’ll buy it if there is no problm in future.
    Thank you.
    Plz rply

    Like

  7. Sir i want to buy a high speed performance bike,i like long tourings on bike approx 1000-1500 km. I confused in pulsar 220f or pulsar rs 200. But my main problum is my height is 5’5.

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  8. mine 220F (2012model) just ran 20,000 kms. Its not causing any problems. Bajaj Service Manual recommends the Valve Lapping & Decarbonizing after 20k kms. So is it really necessary ?
    Also my both tyres are now giving up. I found that the tyre i had(mrf) dont do so good in muddy roads.So which tyre is good and suitable for my next change ?
    any other things i need to do after runing the bike 20,000 km.?

    Thank You !

    Like

    • De-carbonizing at 20k isn’t mandatory, more of a precaution actually, if you are of the type who rides very slow, and sane then you can give it a try as lazy throttle can lead to slightly more carbon deposit than spirited riding does.
      Valve setting is totally dpending on the valve conditions, if it is fine and working properly , no need to change it.
      You can try the MRF zappers or the new R15 tyres, comes in one size upper to the stock spec but is good in wet grip, do not expect tyres to stand good in slush, for that you need knobby tyres, which are very bad for normal roads and only good for loose mud/slushy conditions, try to be more careful in slush or avoid riding in slushy roads, that’s the best you can do.

      Nothing much to check at 20k, change spark plug, clean the carb , change air filter , check chain life and such basic stuff, check bearing life that is pretty much the only things to look into.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  9. hey i m using motul 5100 15w50 but my engine is over is over heating and the gear shifting is not so smooth. now i m going to change my engine oil , which oil should i use for my bike which make my bike smooth. i m damn confused 😦

    Like

    • I have very rarely come across someone who is having issues with 5100, are yo usure that you are not running a very lean AFR ? Try correcting the AFR first and then check.
      If it is indeed the oil you want to change, you can try 7100 which is costlier and is FS too.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  10. brother please help me.,how can i fix the fairing vibration of my pulsar 220f 2015 model.i gone to service center to fix the problem.they said they cant do anything for this.plz help me bro

    Like

  11. This is one hell of a five star review! Great to read from beginning to end. I just purchased a new pulsar 220 this month currently being run in. When I shift upwards from 2nd to 3rd at about 3500rpms, there are vibrations felt. Will a fairing tightening during 1st service help? Also the gear lever at times gives a miss to neutral from 2nd and goes directly to 1st. In this course if the bike comes to a dead halt, moving it up from 1st to neutral is impossible unless you move a bit at 1st and then shift up to neutral. Any reasons?

    Like

    • Thanks for the kind words.
      Now as far as the small vibrations are oncerned, it’ll be there, the 220 is not a vibe free engine so to speak, but if it is fairing vibrations in particular you are talking about then yes, tightening it can help reduce it a bit.
      For neutral finding issues, just let it set in a bit more, a few oil changes and it should be set. Probably after some time you can go for better oil which will help eliminate this problem.

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  12. just get a check in to gerlar box, could pe possible that shifting pedal might be loose which leaves the contact coz of torque.

    Like

  13. Which oil is better for pulsar 220s?
    My bike run 34k ..
    Now im using bajaj oil..
    Which oil is better?
    Everyone says bajaj oil is better for pulsar 220..
    Thats why i am asking

    Like

  14. Buddy great review.. I have a problem: in the morning, when i take the bike, it is having missing even i give the trottle,it wn’t revv. Also i want peaceful life with my p 220f. kindly suggest tips for driving and maintaining a smooth p 220 with very good mileage.

    Like

    • Tips are there all in the review. Stick to the service intervals and clean filters regularly, and ride sane.
      Cold start issues maybe, the auto choke is supposed to help. Is it not working ?

      Cheers
      Ride Safe
      Krishna

      Like

  15. Hey buddy,i’m having 220 2011 model,Tikd 33500KMS,
    Kindly gv solution:
    *ENGINE IS OVER HEATING&SOUND START CHANGING
    *HOW TO KNOW FOR DECARBONIZNG AND WHAT R DA BENEFITS OF DNG DAT?
    *DOES USING K&N FILTER EFFECT ENGINE.
    *GEAR SLIPS.
    *

    Like

  16. I Bought This Beast In January’15.
    Clocked 11k,I Drive My Bike 25km/Day .
    So Which Is Best Oil To Use.
    Motul 300v 15W50 or
    Motul 7100 20W50..
    And BTW which Is The Silencer You Changed In Your Bike.

    Like

    • The 5100 is quite enough for the 220. But since you don’t mind going up, the 7100 it is. No actual need for the 300v, it’ll just be added expense.
      The exhaust was the Race concepts exhaust for the 220.

      Like

  17. I want to buy pulsar 220 ,,i want to know..about its milage after…2 or 3 year…then it may be costly..for me or not???

    Like

  18. btother!I have 220f ..my bike digital meter have some problem everything is working well but it doesnot show the speed when I ride only it shows how can I fix that prblm plz help me broda

    Like

  19. Hey ive been using 220f for 3 yrs now… it clocked 20k ..yea i do ride little.as ill leave to my colleg at coimbatore .. but i have done long rides on it…. the problem is. When i accelerate quickly… after hitting the 6k rpm mark.. i let down the throttle… there is some kind of a ‘tik tik tik’ sound coming from the engine area… i hav experienced this prob quite a few times after telling this to a mechanic … he said he fixed it… but the problem still remainssss… could u help with this problem?
    Kiran menon
    Calicut

    Like

  20. Hi bro, I have Idea to changing the air filter or exhaust.. Can yo plz advise me that which one is better to change to get better sound and which brand do prefer.. Expecting ur reply 😉

    Like

  21. HI good eve
    i bought 220f 2010 model recently its seems to good and i fell the joy during the drive but i got some noise from engine after cross the speed 70kmh i want to know the what is the best engine oil for 220 byke

    Like

  22. Good review bro.

    I hav p220 dtsi 2010 model
    Spark plug gets carbon daily, it makes starting problem and perfomence lag. What’s the solution for this?

    Like

  23. hi …..
    im planning to buy 220f this month ..but im concerned with the engine ..cause as i have seen all my frnds have a engine problem with there other bikes of bajaj and recently one of them had to get the bore done which has a hefty price tag and his bike was roughly a year old thats it …..if the engine works in the long run it would nice to buy it ….what are your thoughts on this ?

    Like

  24. I am planning to buy 220f on January 1st 2016.i wants to reach 120km speed in my daily around 200km journey.but i am fearing about vibrations at 120km speed.plz guide me… can i go for 220f?i was unable to select other bikes than 220f.but i have only vibrational doubt…pls guide me

    Like

  25. firstly I thanked to you for this very helpful review… sir I bought 220f seven days ago and it clocked only 69 kms but the the gear shifting is not smooth as it was and in last 20 kms riding a tik tik sound came from the engine whenever I drive more that 7-8 kms. sir what should I do….

    Like

  26. nice review!! i hav pulsar 220 made (2012). The engine oil capacity of 220 is 1150 ml. i am using motul 5100 15w50 oil for my bike. it’s in 1 litre bottle. instead of 1150 ml i,m using 1 litre is there any problem will happened to my bike and engine. please reply me

    Like

  27. I have a pulsar 220f with simota air filter installed in it , i drain motul 20w40 engine oil after 3-4k kms , my bike doesn’t cross 136-37 kmph , what can be the problem , i have not flushed my engine since 10-15 kms and totally kms done on my odo is 22 kms

    Like

  28. Hi,
    I bought pulsar 220 f on march 2013. till now i have driven 21000 kms without changing any spare parts. Do i need to change any spares for trusting that my bike will never halt in middle way. Suggest me if any?

    Like

  29. My 2012 model beast has touched 32k kms..My problem is that after the previous oil change at 31k, my bike is drinking oil..so far lost abt 1 litre even after topping up..i see no smoke from exhaust but the engine sound feels as if i had used a power filter though im using a stock one.Im using motul 5100ss…and also experiencing gear slip while shifting down from 3rd..the gear goes to 1st suddenly..i checked d clutch kit and it was fine.The bike use to go above hundred kmph atlst 7 times in a week…can you diagnose the problem?..im in salem and i dont trusts the mechanics here.

    Like

  30. M ridin my bike very rashly
    Now i really wanto take good care of my bike
    My bike vibs a lot which oil i must use….
    Shall i install k&n air filter…

    Like

  31. i booked pulsar 220..im getting on this coming monday…my height 5.5 and weight 50…is that bike wil suitz me?can i ride comfortably?

    Like

    • You are getting the bike on Monday, so you have already paid for it. Doesn’t help much asking it now.
      The bike will be a bit tall for you. But you can get used to it in time..so no need to worry much about it.

      Like

  32. Hi i bought pulsar 220 f 9 months back , distance traveled as of now is 6700 km, 2 times servicing has been done ( one at 500km, one more at 5000 km), now bike is not moving smoothly at higher speeds ( like above 60) , some sound also coming, what should i do to solve this problem???

    Like

  33. hi, im riding my 220 since 6 months, after doing first two services i had installed a K&N filter,
    it gave a good power n sound for the next 4k km.. and then heavy missing started, so i removed the filter, but now i lose the smoothness of my bike.. with filter i rode upto 156km/h but now its not coming beyond 140km/h on the same road
    can u suggest something to increase the speed n initial power

    Like

  34. Hey. 4 months before only i bought pulsar 220, but in first or second gear mask of pulsar vibrating, and after reaching 60 its creating too much sound from the mask and windshield.

    Like

  35. hey brother ! i got another new problem.
    recently i went some uphill ride.the bike seems to work fine in uphill.but the problem occurs while riding down hill.
    after riding for some time in down the hill the rear disc brake stops working completely.
    after giving some rest and some pump it comes back again.
    and after a while same problem occurs again , making it so risky to ride.
    what might be ta reason of the problem and what might be the solution ?
    and also while riding uphill bike’s pick up seems to go off… bike is not going up even in the first gear with the pillion , so the passenger has to get off and even riding single have to use heavy half clutch to get the bike moving, although the road is not to much sloppy.while in the city bike is easily carrying 2 people (even triple load) on the up slope .
    waiting for your reply ..

    thanks brother!!

    Like

    • Looks like your clutch is having issues, probably worn off the friction plates and all.
      About the rear brake, check if the pads are in contact with disk even when you are not applying brake. It seems the disks are overheating.
      Both minor stuff you can get rectified from any svc.

      Like

      • i dont think my clutch is having issues , i m saying that because in my home town there are many hard upward slope, there the bike dont gives any problem , it can even carry three people..
        its allright i think the pick issues is because of altitude,because the pick problem occured was in the high hilly region
        and about the brake issue i’ll see if thats causing the problem and will get back to you ..
        thanks again for the support (Y)

        Like

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