Honda CBR250R 2013 | 9000kms Ownership Review

We are back with yet another bike review,but this time it is relatively shorter ownership period. It’s been nearly half a year with the 2013 Honda CBR250R (Std version), the exclusive Tri-color edition for that. And 9,000 Kms later I am ready to pen down my views on this very capable quarter liter machine.

The CBR 250R was launched in India in spring 2011 , This bike shares a uncanny resemblance to the Honda VFR which is a motorcycle belonging to the sports touring genre. The resemblance stays beyond the looks too, the CBR 250 too is a bike with immense touring potential, and yet has the CBR badge to its name, which is honestly, a bit weird as the CBR series has always been about sport riding and such. It was probably a marketing strategy or something, but we aren’t the least bothered about that right now.   

 Now I got my Bike on August 2013, since it’s launch the CBR has had one update from it’s previous models, the updated models was introduced by the 3rd quarter of 2013, which were introduced with a completely new paint schemes with the previous(2011,2012) paint schemes being dis-continued, now that was just a visual refreshment, when it comes to performance figures, there was a 1 bhp bump in power as per the Honda website, which in my opinion is nothing but just a figure that can be written on paper and doesn’t translate to anything that can be felt in the real world usage when comparing the performance of both the before and after models. So , in all sense it was just a small ECU remap sort of mod. So that about sums up the difference between the 2 models.


So like I was saying, I got the 2013 models with the 26 BHP version and refreshed paint scheme. The New Tri-color edition , which in my personal opinion is the best looking among the current paint scheme available, with the all black theme coming in close second place, or maybe just as good, I just can’t get my head over which is better between the full black and the Tri-color editions. 

So coming to the performance figures,the 2013 CBR 250R churns out 26 BHP , and   22.9 Nm of Torque, which is decent amount of power when it comes to a touring specific bike. And it was definitely a upgrade from the Pulsar 220 which served me well for over 3 years, but considering the specs, it wasn’t much of a upgrade either, and many people asked why i din go for the Duke 390 even though it was well within reach(actually, we do have a 390 in the garage :-D) and almost twice as powerful than the CBR. 


So that brings us to the question , Why the CBR 250R ?

I had 3 reasons

1.I needed a touring specific bike and one with more power than the 220 for that matter, my riding comprises very little of city riding and mostly highway riding.

2. I was not comfortable riding on naked’s(read duke 390) and cruisers as I did not like the riding position or the wind blast I would have to take while touring long distances on  a naked and I am not as tall built to handle a cruiser and riding a cruiser never seemed to work out for me for some strange reason.

3. It had just the right amount of power I required, nothing over the top and not under powered either,  just the right amount of power to play with.

Also, honestly speaking, I also love to have a bit of a aggressive seating position too,though it doesn’t make much sense in a touring sense of view, but this bike just works in that way,so this fully faired touring machine did make sense, as it fit the bill and was exactly what I wanted.

So, it is important that you know what you want before getting a new bike, rather than just going for the cost,style or tend factor that makes most of the people do a impulse purchase and later find it hard to cope with the bike. But having said that the CBR is no slouch in the oomph factor, it gives a really beefy and big bike look to satisfy the ego of the owners who think size matters more 😛


Look wise the bike was great, I always loved the look of the VFR , so it was a given that I would love this too, the shape of the tank also did sweep me of my feet, just looked drop down gorgeous from a rear side angle,though in inspection the seating position might look normal, once you sit on it you will feel it to be a bit on the aggressive side, especially after using the 220 for about 3 years the seating position was indeed quite a change, and not to mention, just like I had the 220, it was a rare machine in my locality with an even rare paint scheme, all the more reason to opt for this bike.

Now let’s divide the review into smaller segments, here we go

Initial impression

First thing that I did when I sat on the bike was to pull in the clutch, now I do not know why I did that but that was my first reaction, and God was I blown away or what..!! I had never in my life felt a smoother and light clutch in my life. And there I was thinking Yamaha had the smoothest clutch. Now that made me immensely happy, a light clutch can be a real blessing during long rides or in heavy traffic conditions. 


Now getting on into the first ride impression,

Highway : The power was just perfect, I had no trouble controlling the power at my will, the engine was responsive in a very linear way, just as expected.Mind you the bike was under run-in so no high rpm action was there for the first few days.


City: Then after  a few kms of highway riding I entered within city limits, that is where I struggled , the bike is pretty sluggish , it’s like the bike is missing a gear, imagine a scenario like this, in bumper to bumper traffic, you are riding in 2nd gear and the bike starts knocking because 2nd gear is too tall for that gear, so naturally once would downshift to 1st cog , but that just makes it worse, suddenly 1st gear is too short for that kind of speed, so you shift up again and then 2nd is too tall for that speed. So basically you are stuck in a position where 1st gear is too short and 2nd gear is too tall for that speed. Now how do you handle such a situation, doing the gear dance every few second , now a light clutch might make it much more effortless than having a heavy/tight clutch, but then in this situation you get to feel the complete weight of the bike on your shoulders and it can get tiresome. So, it is safe to say that in-city performance at very low speed can be quite a handful for first time users

P.S: This is the initial impression phase that has been said above, a few days with the bike in city and you will get used to it and doing the gear dance wouldn’t be much of a bother , so it’s not that you cannot adapt to this trade-off of the bike, but the bottom line is, it just is not a city based bike as it is a highway oriented bike. 

Run-In / Break-In

The bike was run-in properly in a very progressive way, it is a mix of slow run-in and hard break-in, from experience i find it to be the best way to break-in a engine. A very important advice, when running in the engine it must be kept in mind to be aware of the RPM band you are working the motor, not the speed. And also avoid riding the motor at same rpm for prolonged period, always vary the RPM every now and then , and take the machine to high rpm after a few intervals, try to avoid sudden acceleration and keep a smooth throttle at all time.

Design and Build quality

The bike looks huge, no doubt in that. The neatly designed fairing and the beautifully sculpted tank and the fatty tyres all contribute to the huge SBK kind of look, though from the front it does look a bit small. Now coming to the quality of the plastic parts, they are all very much satisfactory, though I did feel the windshield to be a bit flimsy/weak , so raising a question on how good will it withstand high speed, but it was stable enough in triple digit speeds, so it was good enough for me.


The paint quality is also just OK, it could have been better, now having the white paint scheme meant that the tank loves to get scratch marks on it, so a tank pad is a must have if you want to protect the tank from scratches, waxing was needed to remove some of the micro scratches that the tank had due to usage. So to protect the tank I got hold of a tank pad made by Keiti from DJ Helmets and also waxed the whole bike surface to protect the paint from micro scratches.


Coming from the 220 the RVM’s was a huge blessing on this bike. It was just perfect when compared to the 220 RVm, this one had good coverage and a custom adjustment was possible to get the maximum view of what is happening on behind us , making my rides much more safer.

Faced no problem of fairing vibrations, even after 500kms long high speed runs I did to Bangalore from my place a few times, the fairing screws are in place and haven’t gotten loose yet. Now as far as negative design goes, the saree guard on this bike is a disaster, down right ugly to look at and has a weird angle that it sticks out. I removed it after just a few days of having it. Can be useful as a barbecue grill or something for in-house parties 😛

Engine Refinement & Performance :

It’s a Honda, enough said. Even though it’s a highway specific designed Honda, the engine refinement is just as good in city traffic too, even after long time in traffic the engine doesn’t get grumpy and rough on you. The engine does get a bit heated up but it has a excellent cooling system in it that keeps the temperature at bay. Even in extreme heat the engine has not overheated(apart for once , which was no fault of the bike, but PDI gone wrong where the fan connector to the battery was not connected, which caused the radiator fan not to work, the issue was solved the following day)


The engine remains cool and performs consistently on long rides , the power delivery is good and linear until 6k-6.5k RPM band, the engine is quite silent too, an added advantage for tourers, you can just keep munching miles without having to stop for breaks on the bikes accord. Now post 7k rpm the bike is a absolute growler, the whole characteristic changes, it pulls like crazy and give this throaty and loud growl exhaust not from the exhaust, all this keeping the engine noise to a minimum, for a sedate rider that sound once in a while is just purely addictive, the bike is pretty much comfortable in handling triple digit speeds for long distances without breaking a sweat , shows no sign of fatigue at all.  City riding behavior I have explained in the initial impression, nothing more to add in that. 


No major service cost has been incurred yet, just the regular service charges. 

P.S: Since this is a Liquid cooled bike, it is extremely important to check the working of the Radiator fan and an eye on the coolant level and looking for gasket leaks. Being careless in these areas can cost you a lot of money if it things go downhill. Also, when washing the bike, always make it a point not to spray or divert water directly onto the radiator fins directly, it will cause the fins to deform and cooling efficiency will be reduced. 

Engine Oil

As i have explained earlier ,the refinement of the engine is mainly maintained by using the correct grade of oil , draining at the correct time.So you change the engine oil religiously according to your usage pattern and drain interval for your bike’s engine to remain healthy

So now, talking about engine oil.
This bike requires a Fully Synthetic(FS) oil for it’s proper working, SS or mineral oil shouldn’t be used. Till now I have used only the OEM Honda FS oil which is available at the Honda service center. Other feasible options are Motul 7100 and Motul 300v. But I haven’t tried them out yet as the Honda oil has performed quite good for my requirements, i maintain a drain interval of about 5500 kms and the oil stays good until then, so I am content with the Honda oil, and it is pretty cheap too in comparison to Motul FS oils. So I might give Motul a try after adding a few more thousand kms on the bike. And will update my findings here.

Note: The FS oil is packaged in a black box. I have heard many stories of some svc using oil from a silver bottle(meant for scooters) in this bike and screwing up the engine. So always make it a point to make sure which engine oil they are pouring into the bike at the time of service.

Also do note to insist the mechanic to change the Engine oil filter with each engine oil change. It is always advised to do so.



The bike is not what one would say “All-Rounder” , it has some pretty evident short comings. Which is explained below.

Highway: Absolute delight, just the right amount of power, capable for covering long distances without having to take rest breaks. Great control and minimum wind blast. Can easily manage triple digit speeds for long distances without stressing the engine.  


City: A bit of a struggle, needs to play the gear dance quite often and get a bit annoying, weight of the bike is felt on the shoulders when moving about in low speeds, adding on to the struggle in city spaces. Causal low traffic city rides will be a breeze once you get used to this behavior of this bike.


Off-roading: Haven’t actually tried much offroading as I tried with the 220 , as this being being a fully faired bike one must be careful and a drop will cost you dearly. Though I have tried taking it out on a mildly offroad slope and performed quite nicely. Still, my advice would be not to push it too hard on loose terrain and to take it at your own risk. 



I would like to approach this part from 2 different perspective, 

1. Tourers perspective : The bike is a great handler, the handlebars are precise and gives the exact feedback according to the rider inputs , handling around those potholes can be easy and effortless , the tyre being a semi soft type compound can last a bit longer than the soft compounds. So from a touring perspective, the bike handles great 


2.Cornering enthusiast perspective :The bike is seriously held back due to the bad quality tyres and soft front shocks , it has a lot of scope for improvement, the first and foremost are the tyres, the stock tyre does no justice to the handling potential of the bike, as far as you are on a dry dust free tarmac the contigo allows you to have a lot of fun, but even then the bike is just not planted enough or that confidence inspiring,on a wet tarmac cornering can be really scary if on the stock tyres. 
The soft front shocks also are a reason for this,although being a touring oriented bike, a stiff front shock wouldn’t translate to comfortable riding as well , so we can take that into account as a trade-off

People who have replaced the stock tyres with MRF and Michelin’s have given overwhelmingly good response in the bump in handling they have experienced. So getting rid of the Conti-go would be the first thing to do to increase the handling capability of the bike.


This is one area where Honda compromised on quality and that too big time, the stock Conti-Go tyres are not road worthy..!! That is the most simple way to put it.

For argument sake we can say the dry grip is kind of OK, manageable most of the time, but the tyre tends to lose traction a lot , a bit of rear brake pressure causes the rear wheels to lock and the bike rear starts stepping out and is all over the place.


Wet grip is just plain nightmare. Using the rear brakes is a life threatening prospect during the monsoons, have had many fishtails during the monsoons  season using the rear brake. Even on the dry tarmac a bit of prolonged usage of the rear brake seems to lock the wheel . I have always been able to manage the slides so far. I have no idea when I will be presented with a slide that I won’t be able to handle. 


I also had the misfortune of having a defective rear tyre. I had to change the rear tyre as early as 6k on the ODO, the problem being that the right shoulder of the rear tyre having accelerated wear and was worn down to the level of the bottom patches being exposed, and the rest of the tyre wearing off at a normal rate. On doing a bit of research found that this too has been a common problem for many people but all at different period of the tyres life-cycle. I had it replaced , thanks to the helpful mentality from the service center manager, despite continental rejecting my claim for warranty at first.


The sad part being that this has been the feedback from customers right from 2011 when the bike was launched and Honda hasn’t done anything concrete to counter this problem.  Though a few lucky souls have got their CBR with stock sized MRF Revs rubber when delivered (same model as the R15 V2.0 but in stock CBR sizes, testing phase probably) , but then again the Dealers have no idea of it and sourcing this tyre from MRF is next to impossible , having been trying to do that from last 3-4 months. Probably it is a sign that the future 2014 models might see a change in the tyre options and will be much better.

But now we do have a few other options until this problem is resolved. Michelin has introduced tyres in stock CBR sized that is 110/70-17 and 140/70-17 . Claiming to have more life than a set of PSD and much more grip. It is readily available in the market now , but can be a bit on the expensive side. Initial reviews on this tyre have been great, people seem to be feeling much more stability and control with this tyre than the stock ones.


Another option is the Duke 200 or Duke 390 tyres, which has been a popular option right from the time the Duke was launched. Though using the duke’s tyre meant up-sizing, but no negative sides have been reported so far. The metzelers from the 390 is also a options, but a very expensive option for that matter.


The braking power of the CBR is a bit of a let down, though it does manage to stop just right in time, would have loved to have a bit more bite for the front brakes, rear brake is also being the same, could do with being a bit more responsive.


The ABS version bikes seems to have a bit more better feedback from the brakes as compared to the Standard versions. The Brake unit for the ABS versions are from Nissin while the standard version has the units from Bybre. 


After almost 6 months of owning this beautiful machine, I can say that I made the right choice in choosing a upgrade for my 220. Though the pricing is a bit steep, it was a bike which fit all my requirements within the 2L price bracket.

 So if you want a great looking bike,with a decently powerful engine, good comfort, apt for long rides get the Honda CBR 250R and change the tyres to a better pair and enjoy thousands of miles of happy touring. 


So, I guess it’s time to wind up the review here, I am certain I might have missed some aspect here and there, after-all clearing all grounds is a rather tough and time consuming job. So if you find some aspect that i have missed here and want to know about it , do leave me a feedback in the comments section and i will surely get back to you with the answer, or you can contact us at


Ride Safe



164 responses to “Honda CBR250R 2013 | 9000kms Ownership Review

  1. Pingback: Honda CBR250R 2013 | 9000kms Ownership Review | Wheels'n'Shields·

  2. Nice review bro.. 🙂 as a cbr owner just want to give a advice that i also faced that 1st 2nd gear problm in city. This is true but after 1 1/2 yrs of experience nw i never slot to 1 gear in traffic.. Just roll the throttle a bit more in 2nd n the bike vl respond good.. Even with a pillion..:) n rest is same crappy tires (switched to duke 200,mrf revs 1 cornering is awesm n wet grip too) but soon change to michelins to have good touring aspect as well..n same with brakes.. Going to install steel braided lines 🙂 ride safe ride hard..;)


  3. the 220 had soft compound MRF Zappers which had great grip characteristics in both wet and dry. Both the CBR and 220 are capable of maintaining 120 kmph consistently all day. The 220’s front suspension is stiff, aides handling. Headlights are better on the 220. So I fail to understand how can the CBR be a justified upgrade from the 220F DTSi, for the premium that Honda charges.


    • 1.Though both the 220 and cbr can hold the same said 120kmph speed for some distance, but what is the end result of riding both for say 1 hour at that speed, the 220 gets stressed out and the bottom range performance starts to lag, due to the engine fatigue and heat, but at the same time the CBR can keep higher speeds for longer distances without the need for a stop and still have a much cooler and smoother engine with no loss in performance or smoothness. That from a tourer aspect is a very important attribute to have.

      2.The clutch and gearbox of the CBR is miles ahead in comfort and smoothness than compared to the 220 which is hard and clunky. The lack of a cruising gear in the 220 has always been a short coming, ask most of the 220 owners who do a lot of highway run a 6th cog is something they always wanted, including me.

      3.The zappers aren’t soft compound as such, but the grip is very good,contigo is not a worthy contender here.

      4.The 220 has a very heavy front and the rear shocks are horrible and bounces around the place while negotiating a high speed corner and the chassis design is outdated,thus handling is anything but below average,it gets flickable by practice not by the bikes virtue, have ridden it for 72k kms and I have my very own method to manhandle the bike through a curve, but that doesn’t mean the shortcomings of the bike isn’t present,while cbr has a excellent frame very good shocks rear and front(front being more touring biased ,meaning a bit soft) but still handles very well,much much more confidence inspiring than the 220.

      5.Yes headlights are better in 220,but cbr headlights being not any lesser or bad.

      So now i hope you understand where the CBR gets the better of 220 in all areas except the headlights part.
      And all those improvements and quality come at a cost. Though there is no explanation from Honda about the cheap tyre they provide.

      And now coming to plastic quality ,fairing aerodynamics,build quality ,amazing cooling system. If you expect that all at no premium cost at all then I do not know what to say.You cannot expect Bajaj type of pricing from other manufacturers, there is a whole lot of reason why they are able to price it like they do, that point is of no use here , so let’s not get into that.

      And yes the price is a bit high, but in every other sense it is a very much worthy upgrade to the 220. Unless the meaning of upgrade would attribute to just engine power or speed it can reach,that would be just a bhp upgrade. I am talking about the whole package, which is technologically miles ahead than the 220 and even in comfort in most sense as a tourer a worthy upgrade.

      Ride Safe


  4. The P220F’s tyres are of the soft compound type, Bajaj have clearly mentioned that on their website. CBR’s tyres are the worst I have come across, even an Enfield’s tyres are better in terms of grip. Have used the CBR and the P220 for long enough to draw my conclusions.

    The brakes on the CBR provide no feedback, non-ABS version has pathetic brakes. The P220’s front brake has good bite, the rear is average. Both brakes on the P220 give good feedback.

    The rear suspension of the P220 needs to be set at No.3 position and the saree guard needs to be removed (coz it comes in the way of suspension movement). With this setting, the P220 is very stable in corners. The P220 needs a little effort to dip into a corner but is very stable mid-corner. The CBR on the other hand is a nightmare in terms of cornering; neither its suspension nor its tyres support spirited cornering.

    The CBR does come with an able chassis, far better than the P220. But in real world terms, the CBR’s suspension and tyres doesn’t allow the rider to utilize the chassis effectively.

    My P220F was taken care of extremely well, I completed my running-in as per the Manual, used fully synthetic oil, checked tyre pressure once a week and lubricated the chain every 500-600 kms. So my bike was super smooth, no roughness in the engine even at a constant 8000-8500 RPM. Did Bombay to Goa thrice on it, Bombay-Bangalore twice too. On none of the occasions, the P220 felt rough or running out of steam.

    CBR being a tourer has a small petrol tank capacity, range is around 350-400 kms max. The P220 with its 18 liter fuel tank was a boon on long journeys, almost 750 kms on a full tank of fuel.

    The pricing of the CBR doesn’t cut ice at all. Indians are obsessed with Honda, hence Indians are most likely to uphold a biased opinion of the Honda.


    • Mate,
      MRF works best for the 220, even I have said that and you too.And the contigos are not any good in wet grip, I have already mentioned that in the review and you are just repeating it again. I don’t see why that is being debated upon again.

      I find the CBR’s front brake very much satisfying, I have used it in every kind of situation including sudden panic braking and have felt no issues with it, a steel braided line would only make it better. And I have faced no problems with the 220’s brakes too.

      Coming to suspension, just as you set the 220 to its 3rd position which works for you the CBR suspension can be set likewise to a comfortable position. So I don’t see how you can say CBR is no good in handling. The rear mono shock is a wonderful product and the front is a bit soft but it is good enough to carry you through a corner with ease.

      We do take care of our bikes well enough, do all the necessary servicing and everything is upto date. A bike performs just as good as you maintain it.

      And coming to the tank capacity, the bike was designed with a 13ltrs tank, it is good enough to carry you through 300-350kms on a full tank and that is quite a good number of kms.

      If you are unhappy with the pricing , that is not something that can be dealt with in our level.

      So please avoid the brand bashing and try to appreciate the features and working of the bike the manufactures provide. This is not a comparo between 2 given bikes. This is just a documentation of how well the CBR handles different segments.

      And it is as un-baised as it can get. Or please point out where I have been biased. Would love to change it.

      Ride Safe


  5. I think there shouldnt be a comparo between cbr n a 220 (200ns can be compared) but a 220, NEVER!! tried both on highways city or corners cbr has betr of everything (except stock tyres which vl be changed to mrf in some period) high speed stability , min vibrations( mainly fairing loosening) engine power responsiveness or anything a bike has is vastly superior as compared n Indians r obsessed with Pulsars I believe othrwise bajaj vl become a flop co. As of nw.. Quality n mainly ownership experience alwaz comes with a price so its justified.. (if not then a 150cc japnese yam or Honda wudnt hav d same top speed n acceleratn as a 220cc pulsar 😛 ) so ride safe n appreciate the quality..:)


    • Exactly my point mate..!!
      Why the comparo. What I have stated was mere ownership experience of a particular vehicle, with no comparisons with another bike throughout.
      What I was trying to make him understand in replies to his comment was that how technologically advanced piece of machinery the CBR was. and that’s what justifies the price.

      Glad that somebody is getting the picture..!!

      Ride Safe


  6. Hi there , from which honda showroom did you buy the CBR… i would like to know about their service response. are they bad or do they respond well..? ur bike seems from pattambi range i am from chalakkudy… hoping to get the reply..!


    • Hai, I bought it from John’s honda , Puzhakkal Trichur.
      They have a very compitent work force, special wing for CBR service and about 2-3 people who service CBR exclusively, and they are very knowledgeable too, if you are willing to take form trichur, take it from John’s honda.

      Ride Safe


  7. Hi Krishna,

    It was an awesome review. I own an R15 and now odo is 30000. I wish for an upgrade to 200+ cc. I was in a bit of confusion b/w duke and CBR but after reading your review, without any doubt the one I am looking was CBR. I am open to mods after purchase so the tyre upgrade can be done straight away.

    Ajoy Saju Mathew


  8. It was an awesome review, best one i’d seen. I m planning to buy a CBR, but I m confused that should I wait for CBR 300r or just go for 250r.


  9. I bought my Cbr a month back and its 770 on the ODO. But the thing is as soom as the bike touches 95-100, it starts vibrating. Is it because its new or is it the ECU problem? If ecu, then where n how to get it fixed?
    N yeah, I experience the same problem of gear-dance in the city, so I usually release the clutch slowly. Most of thr time I have to shift down, but still its fine with clutch-release thing!


    • Have the chain slack adjusted and the air filters cleaned also wait until the first service is over for taking to higher speeds..vibrations are bound to happen for a new engine which is setting in.

      Ride safe


  10. Thank you bro, the first service is done and its running quite smooth. Though i don’t like taking it to high speeds (new bike= lots of care :P), so keeping it at 80-85 is sufficient for me. Although I’ve taken it to a 100 just to know if there’s any vibration problem, and honestly, there is but its probably less than it was before. Thank you for the effort, man! 🙂
    And yes btw, if you organize a trip sometime, do let me know. Or if you know someone who usually organizes trips and all, I’ll be glad to get in touch with them 🙂


  11. Nice review. Helped me deciding on a bike for long distance travel. Usually 300km at a stretch.

    I am 35 now. What I need is power and ride quality. CBR fits the bill for power but I am concerned about ride posture.

    Is cbr ride posture ergonomic? Is it easy for shoulders and back for long traval? Please give an honest answer

    How’s the shocks? So far I feel ride quality is ok as per readings about it with some concerns of crouched posture. So asking to an experienced person like you.

    I never rode a bike with crouched riding posture. I had bullet for 8 years (avoiding it only because heavy maintenance and bad brakes), and yamaha fazer and honda shine for one year each.

    Plz answer. Thanks


    • Hai Rahman.
      The posture isnt upright like in a bullet or fazer. It is a bit more sporty and wen you shift from the upright position, you will find it a bit tough. But you gradually get used to it and the position becomes a lot more relaxing.
      I had a bit of a problem first, then i got used to it.
      Now i do trips of over 500kms on the cbr.
      Now coming to shocks..keeping touring in mind it is on the softer side. Gives good absorption on bumps, though it does have a lot of scope for improvement.
      Do ask if you have any more queries.



  12. Nice review wheels’n’shields I too booked the cbr250r tricolour abs last week but the news from saying that update coming for cbr250r to cbr300 with cbr look two headlamps and a bump of 29bhp power and reduced weight and priced as same as the cbr250r so give me suggestion whether to go for this 2013 cbr or wait for the update to come.


  13. Hey there, i am only able to do 135-137kmph on the highway. Though i know that the cbr can do better. How and from where can i get the ecu thing fixed? I reside in gurgaon. Need help on this.
    And secondly, the gearbox makes a noise on shifting the gear, which i have told the service official so many times but it is still there. Can you please advice me on the same?
    Thirdly, should i get a K&N air filter installed? Does it have any demerits?
    Please see if you can tell me what to do!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hai kunal,
      If you need to improve the top end a bit the most basic mod to do is to change the sprocket tooth count,for which you will need custom sprockets.
      For ecu you can contact different tuning companies in india or abroad to remove the limiters and tune accordingly.
      About k&n , the basic is that if you opt for a free flow intake,the exhaust must also be modified to accomadate this change.otherwise it can cause premature wear and tear.


    • Kunal the CBR250R should be able to hit a 140 kmph comfortably post which the increase in speed gets slower. There isn’t anything wrong with your ECU, unless the ECU malfunction light is glowing constantly. Try shifting gears at 7,000 rpm and check your top speed again. Fitting a K&N makes no sense unless you remap the ECU to compensate for the increased air flow. Remapping the ECU can be done by Kiirus Auto in New Bombay, call Abhiskek for the same on +919594060920.


      • Thankyou for the advice Reeto and Krishna. I’ll get back to wheels’n’shields once i try the 7000 rpm thing.
        Ride safe 🙂


  14. Hi krishna…
    i am thinking to go for a 200+cc bike… presently am using honda unicorn nd thanks for ur review it was really helpful to know abt cbr. i hav some doubt pls clarify if u can…
    1. i heard that in cbr 250 vit forward lean driving position nd applying brakes is bit scary as it vil be like diving forward… is it true ?
    2. is it difficult to ride vit a bit of tummy ?
    3. the design nd configuration of cbr are attracting me to take but biased after hearing that cbr 300r is on the way to come… if so any info abt the launch nd price ?
    4. heard that exposing the radiator to dust makes it difficult to clean or damages the cooling efficiency nd honda service men also not responding well on this issue…

    Liked by 1 person

    • Hi Raj. Since you have been using an Unicorn, the CBR250R should be an apt upgrade for you. However Honda have stopped manufacturing the CBR as per latest reports doing the rounds, but there is enough inventory at dealer level for u to buy a new one.
      1. Yes the CBR’s front shocks are tuned very soft for a comfortable ride on bad roads, so there is fork dive under hard braking.
      2. Tummy or no tummy, you can ride it comfortably
      3. Yes CBR300 is scheduled for launch in the first half of 2015, it will definitely be around Rs. 50k more than the CBR250R
      4. The CBR engine is a gem, it doesn’t overheat at all. Cleaning the radiator with air & water in every service is good enough.

      Kindly note that braking on the non ABS model is not very confidence inspiring, the ABS model however brakes well. Tyres of the CBR aren’t very grippy in wet weather, a better pair of after market tyres will solve that. Cornering ability of the CBR is strictly average due to its soft suspension, but the bike is very comfortable over bad roads and can tour endlessly without any stress to the rider.

      As an alternative, you may also consider going for an used Ninja 250R which will be available under 2 lakh


    • Hai Raj,
      1. The forward leaning position is something you need to get used to. When shifting from a upright seating position initially you will feel a bit weird but then you get over it,so no issues there
      And the forward diving issue,never felt it.
      2)not at all, i too have a bit of a tummy,never felt any problems because of that.
      3)it is said that the current 250r has stopped production and stocks are being cleared,so i guess the updated 250/300 should be right around the corner.
      4)the radiator will get dusty if it is exposed to such conditions,it can be cleaned with care and you will be just fine. Direct a powerful stream of water directly onto the radiator bends the fins reducing cooling efficiency,apart from that the radiator works wonders.



  15. Hi mate,
    How do you compare CBR250R with your duke 390? I am confused between CBR250R ABS repsol edition 😛 and duke 390.

    I am 21 years old, 5 feet 10 inches tall and should be ~92KG+/- 5KG and currently ride a 2011 yamaha FZS
    Being a student my requirements are:

    1. Cheap spare costs and long service interval: I have heared that CBR250R needs to be serviced only twice a year, which will save some service costs. my annual usage will be around 5000-6000KMs). While spares of duke seems cheaper even though it requires 4 services per year.

    2. ABS, liquid cooled and fuel injected. Only these are are worthy contenders in this aspect.

    3. Reliability : Concerned about issues people reported in ownership threads. CBR250R head gasket getting blown multiple times, coneset requiring replacement, even during xbhp pan india ride, their CBR250R had engine seizure. While duke owners are complaining about leaking forks, coolant leaks and oil leaks from gasket. fragile wheels etc. Are these issues still present in current models?

    4. Comfort : I ride a yamaha FZ-S at the moment and if i mount-dismount the saddle 4-5 times. My butt starts to pain and it gets extremely uncomfortable to sit on the saddle after that. It could be due to my heavy 90+KG body but if possible i would prefer a comfortable bike.

    I haven’t test ridden these bikes as TD bikes aren’t available in my city. What would you recommend according to my requirements and how do you compare CBR250R with duke 390?

    I am in love with the repsol edition paint scheme in CBR, That’s the only reason i decided to upgrade from my 12,000KMs old FZS.The other reason why CBR seems better is because of long service interval of 6 months. (correct me if i am wrong).

    on the other hand, duke 390 has awesome power, will be fun to ride in city and spares are cheap too (again, correct me if i am wrong).

    Also, i have some questions about these bikes:

    1. Can you please tell me the RPM at which CBR and Duke 390 touches 100kmph?

    2. What is service interval of CBR250R and duke 390? I went through some ownership threads and found this
    CBR250R : every 6000KMs or 6 months
    Duke 390 : Every 4000KMs or 70 days
    Is that true?

    3. Can you please tell me the approx. cost of regular PAID servicing of these bikes. Maintenance cost is very important for me.
    Costs including oils, coolant topups, servicing charge, wash and chain lube, valve adjustment (if required) etc.

    4. Does Duke 390 require high octane petrol? or regular 91 RON is enough for it?

    Thanks in advance


    • Cbr 250 and duke 390 are like apples and oranges , there is no fair way to compare the two.
      Both belong to different catagory, the cbr being touring oriented and the duke being a street fighter type of bike. So you see the characteristics differ right from the basics.

      So a comparison is out of the question,its more like what suits your needs and how ready you are to get the right product.

      So let me answer your questions

      1)service interval is more about how much kms you cover and less about time. If you ride regularly you will have to service it(maintain) it regularly. If you ride less the service interval will be more far apart.

      2.both has those so nothing to say on it.

      3.both have their set of issues that have been documented. Since i own both i can say the cbr hasn’t given me any trouble yet and the duke had one case of gasket leak which was resolved and no problem since.
      So for me both have been super reliable since i maintain my bikes very well. comfort duke takes the back seat. Seats are hard and very less padding is provided. While cbr seats are better and more plush compared to duke
      So for the long highway runs cbr has better comfort.

      So for your annually 5-6k usage and dlets assume its city commute and lesser of highway then the duke is the more fun and interesting bike to have. It is very very aggressive and will give that rush which is addictive.
      If you want a relaxed ride the cbr is the better choice since the power delivery is very linear and rider friendly.
      As far as parts go duke has cheaper parts but honda parts are more long lasting.

      So now its your decision to make.

      Now for the second set of questions.

      1. I am not sure,haven’t checked it as such

      2.cbr is 6000or 6 months and duke is also the same i think., i always have services early since my riding is more close to 100kms a the days clause never becomes applicable to me.

      3.paid service for cbr is about 2-2.5k including labor while duke comes to 2.5k to 3k.

      4.duke runs just fine with normal pump gas. But if you give it higher ron petrol(not additive petrol but higher ron rating petrol) then it will perform much smoother.

      Hope i answered your questions adequately. A decision on which bike to get is ultimately your choice.

      Ride safe


      • Thanks a lot for your reply. I don’t ride much. Will be clocking ~3000KMs in 6 months. So i will have to service my bike according to time interval recommended by honda/ktm.

        Next time you service your ride or whenever you have time. Can you please confirm about service interval of duke 390? A guy at xbhp had said its 4000KMs/70 days for duke 390. I am not in a hurry so you can take your time.

        My last question, Is KTM duke 390 comfortable enough for long rides? I will do 750KMs one way ride once or twice an year.

        ps: I will be riding alone so i am not concerned about pillion comfort.


        • I mean if you are up for it, the duke will do long tours.
          I myself have done over 600-700kms tours on the duke in a single day.
          What i will say is that cbr does it better and a more relaxed way.
          I hope this makes sense.


          • Thanks.
            How much insurance costs for both these bikes? Do you use zero dep insurance?

            you said “paid service for cbr is about 2-2.5k including labor while duke comes to 2.5k to 3k”.
            Does that include engine oil and oil filter cost as well?
            How much oil is required in these bikes? and their price?


            • Insurance is not zero dep.
              For the cbr initial insurance amount was close to 3k , while for the duke it was 4k.

              Paid service cost is inclusive of Oil+Oil Filter , Washing, Chain clean and lubrication and the other general check ups. If more parts are replaced as and when needed cost will increase.

              Oil required is 1.5L for both bikes. And prices varies from brand of oil. Honda FS oils are cheaper than the oils used in duke which is either Motul 7100 or 300V both of which are FS oil.

              Ride Safe


    • @Himanshu – The CBR250R is eons ahead of the Duke in terms of comfort, both seat and suspension wise. However, if its absolute comfort you are looking at, then the new Hero Karizma is the most suited for you. It may not be as powerful as the CBR or Duke but its capable of giving u a very comfortable ride irrespective of road conditions. Try test riding the Karizma and you will know exactly what I am saying.


      • Not interested in karizma.
        ABS, fuel injection and liquid cooling are a must for me. Maintenance/servicing costs and comfort comes later.


  16. Hi there, I have a question for you… I hope u will help… I am planning to upgrade from my pulsar 150 which has clocked 40000 on odo…. I generally do 15-20 km a day but also a highway trip in a month between 700-800km…. I was drawn towards cbr 250… But pricing was an issue…. So now I am getting a used cbr 250 std that has only clocked 8800km on odo n is July 2012 model in excellent condition… I have got it checked from service centre and it’s fine…. No issues with it…. It’s sunbeam colour…. M confused should I buy that as it’s costing me 95k or should I go in for pulsar 200ns….. N if I go for cbr… N God forbids … If the bikes fairing gets damaged…. Would I be able to get same paint job ?? Plz advice… As m 6’2 tall will bike suit me??


    • Hi Prateek. Having owned the Pulsar 200NS, I sincerely advise you to stay away from it. The NS is an able commuter, but ride quality isn’t great at all on bad roads. Also the NS has stability issues on open highways, especially on a windy day, it weaves a lot and tyres are pathetic. Lot of rusting issues have been reported on the NS till date, Bajaj cares a damn for its customers post the bike leaving the showroom. There are un-refinement (read vibrations) that leaves your hands and feet numb on the NS, especially when touring long distances.

      As for the CBR250R, try sourcing an used ABS variant. The non-ABS variant lacks in the braking department. However if you still go for it, please change the tyres to Pirelli Sports Demon.


    • Better option of the 2 is the cbr. Not that ns isn’t a good bike. It surely is, but like reeto mentioned, the tyres arn’t good and compared to cbr, cbr has the upper hand on touring comfort.

      The std version brakes are a bit on the low side, so do consider changing the brake lines to steel braided lines for better braking. Also the contigo tyres also doesn’t help much.

      Ride safe


      • Thanks for the advise….. So I would then go for cbr 250 std edition….. So wat tyre should I change to?because my touring comprises of hilly area riding that too 400-500km in stretch….


  17. Firstly that’s a really good review,
    I actually got to know about the engine oil I need to use. Also completely agree on the tyres, the braking of the abs is an absolute pleasure.
    Now I had a query I use my bike for daily commutes from roads which are at times packed with traffic jams, the engines seems to heat up (even till the last bar) as soon as I’ve stopped and rather quickly as I feel it doesn’t get the air to cool it down, could you suggest a coolant I can use, and also if I should get it checked or is it a normal issue, as on the rides with average traffic it’s completely fine and doesn’t rise above 3 bars.


    • Hi Ziyus. Thanks for the kind words.

      Now coming to your queries. Would like to know if you have ever felt the radiator fan kick in ?
      The reason i say so is because the cbr hardly heats up above 3 bars. If it goes even one bar above that it means the cooling is not happening properly (refer owners manual).
      For me even in the most stagnant traffic and clutch riding for 1.5hrs at end the bars stick to 3,except i can hear the fan running and doing its job.
      I had this issue where the fan was not working initially , only in that case the bars climbed to 4th bar, in such case you should immediately stop riding to not cause any further damage to the engine.
      If the fan is running then you are low on cooling fluid. Get it refilled.

      Now for coolant fluid , i would suggest engine ice. It is a purple colored fluid (for your reference) and helps in keeping the bike cooler than the stock fluids can do.

      Now , do have a serious look into this. The bars shouldn’t exceed 3 bars in almost any conditions. If it does stop riding and get it to the svc centers asap.

      Do let us know after getting the bike checked.

      Ride safe


  18. Hey Krishna, thanks for the prompt response I’ll change the coolant I use to the one you mentioned and in my next service I’ll get this checked as well, besides that I haven’t really realised the fan kicking in.. But it absolutely never heats up, unless in bumper to bumper traffic. I’ll get it checked in anycase, ps. Any clue on what particular air filter/ ecu setting I could get done to boost the power up a notch or two.


    • The first priority would be to check if the fan is up and running, if it is then you could just swap the coolant fluid. You will have to drain the current one and flush the radiator properly before refilling with the new fluid. Get it done from a experienced mechanic.

      As far as performance mods go. You could try to get a custom tuned ECU with aftermarket exhaust(preferably Full System) to bump up the power, along with which a free flow intake will also be needed to complete the package.
      If you do not wish to spend so much time and money on these mods(they are expensive) then you can play with the sprocketing , varying the number of teeth on the sprockets can get you more acceleration at the cost of to pend or vice-versa.
      You can decide on which one you prefer.



  19. I’m not looking to spend so much on an entire system, I was thinking of a k&n for some tweeks in sound and a lil boost in power. Suggested? Or some other brand. And can you fiddle with the ecu without changing the entire exhaust and free flow system?


    • Just plonking a Free flow filter is of no use, on the contrary it does more harm than good.
      The ECU can be flashed , if you have any good tuning houses around with valid experience they can get it done for you.
      But to compliment a Flashed ECU maps you need a better exhaust manifold. They are all linked together to give better performance without accelerating the wear and tear to a extreme level.
      If you are just looking for sound and some initial power bump(not bhp bump) you can go for Leo Vince slip on. Akrapovic’s are very costly to justify its value.

      Then again , like I said, you can play around with sprocketing, that will be much easier on the sprocket and a very hassle free way to replace back to stock too.



  20. Hi again… Finally got my cbr250 std…. I have a doubt…. Today I took the bike for a long drive from Chandigarh to Delhi… 250 km one side… The bike gave me satisfying ride and the engine didnot heat up the meter showed only till 3 levels… But I tried to get maximum speed …. I got 140kmph not more than that …. Is it ok? Or the riding position or weight proportion also adds up to hamper biking performance…? Wats the max speed you guys got? N yes m on a heavier side as m 6’2 n weighing good… So 140 kmph is normal for me?? If I want to increase the performance n top speed … Wat should I do… Plz suggest


    • 140 is a good figure and yes top speed depends on a lot of stuff.
      Riding position, gear shifts,chain slack,lubed, tyre pressure, wind direction and many other factors. If you can find a really long empty stretch try another speed run and you might see above 140.
      Weight is a factor but not a big factor to make a lot of diff.

      Increasing top speed cheapest and easiest option is sprocket change, but that will decrease the acc a bit. Other options are costly and includes engine mods.

      Ride safe


  21. You may be right….. Coz wind direction was against me….. N Reeto…. I got this as second hand…. It’s well maintained ….. Now m sure my bike is fine….. 👍 the acceleration upto 120kmph is amazing but post that it climbs slowly…. N I got an avg of about 36kmpl and I guess it’s good enough… I got this bike with MRF tyres not with continental… I guess the first owner changed it so it’s better than continental….


  22. Reeto a big thanks to you…. Just check the previous comments … You only advised me staying away from pulsar 200ns as I had two options new pulsar 200 ns n second hand cbr 250r… So I got July 2012 p. Beam (tri colour) cbr 250 r for 1 lac …. N I am happy with it👍


  23. And one important thing before I forget to mention…. The cbr250′ s palm grip is a bit painful….. As it’s hard so wat to do in that case….. N last but not the least to get get rid of few unwanted scratches on tank… Please advise


  24. Thanks a lot for the reply….. Also I have been advised by a service guy at Honda to buy a chain spray that whenever I wash the bike ….. Then use chain spray ….. As it would increase the lyf of chain…. N yes there are hairline scratches…. Any link online were I can buy the wax or any other thing to apply on it so that I can get rid off them… Plz do share…. Thanx a lot


    • Prateek,
      Chain lube is a very improtant part to keep the chain healthy an last long. If you could clean the chain and lube it every 700-1000kms , and maintain the correct slack too, then it will last you for a long time.

      You can get turtle wax or formula one wax form any good car accessories dealership or from Ebay or Snapdeal or other such e-commerce websites.



  25. Thanks for your detailed review.I own Yamaha FZ16 and I’m happy with its performance in city. But it such a pain in the ass for long drives, which I experienced today. CBR seems to be a nice alternative, may be I should consider it while looking for an upgrade.


  26. Hi team,

    I want to increase the sound of my bike as the stock exhaust are not upto the mark….. So if I go ahead and just change the stock exhaust with another sporty…. Will this affect my bikes reliability ? I m not looking into bump the performance just better sound…… Do I need to change the air filters or stock will do?…. N also in future can I also use the stock exahust back ? Awaiting your response…


    • Hi Prateek,
      The best way to get more sound without harming the engine would be to use a proper slip on build to spec to the CBR.
      Since CBR is a Fi engine , it will take care of the air fuel mixture without having to do any changes, this is in the case of a slipon. No performance gains will be felt apart from the weight reduction.
      But make it a point to go for a good quality slip-on for the same.
      It might cost you a bit more than a locally manufactured one, but will only do you good.

      Ride Safe


  27. The review is an excellent one , it’s because of people like you that even before we go for a test drive we know what to expect . thanks a lot..
    1.My situation is similar to yours I too am upgrading from pulsar 220f after having driven it for 40k km but my day to day commuting is city based and I need a bike which can be a daily driver consideration are cbr250R or ninja 300 second hand not ktm has it has a very straining driving position kindly advice
    2. If cbr then should I be waiting for a new model in 250 range as 300 will be out of reckoning and when can we expect it..
    Thanks in advance


    • Hi Piyush,
      Thanks for the kind words.
      1. The CBR is not a perfect city riding machine, the first 2 gears are too short and you will find yourself going a lot of gear changes, but if it is a moderate traffic you can handle it without much issues, it might not be as flickable as a naked bike , but its not too bad either.
      If you have a option of Ninja 300 then try and get that, its great to ride in city, the torque it has makes it quite easy to ride without much gear changes, but it might be a tad more expensive to maintain.

      2. That is a total dark place altogether, nobody knows what Honda is planning on the CBR 250/300 , So I do not want to give you any false hopes on this either.


  28. Hi again,
    Please let me know the good quality slip on u are talking about? Wat compay would it be and also hw much would it cost?just a rough figure….. If u have any link to get the slip on please post it here…. Would be of great help n also I get my bike service after every 3000km n oil change after every 6000 kmas my running is between 1200-1500km every month…. I hope m taking a good care of the bike by the above mentioned interval..


    • Hi Prateek,
      Good quality slip ons would be from leo vince , Akrapovic.
      The leo vince might start from 15k , i am not sure.
      The Akrapovic is very costly..start at around 40k. 40k just for a slip on is pointless.
      The main gain is from reduction in weight. Nothing much other than that.
      The intervals you mentioned is fine. No problems at all.


  29. Hi Krishna ,
    Piyush again actually yesterday I went to a honda dealership in new delhi to book my cbr250 But they said that the bike is no longer available and they are clearing th. Stock as production has stopped for it and they Will soon be launching cbr300 instead . now again I am in a delima what to buy as 300 Will be out of budget..


    • Is it,
      Which dealership was this. Haven’t heard this from anyone in a while now. Most places I hear are still delivering the bikes.
      Now we can never be sure about this until we have solid inside line , which we don’t have. So i do not know what to say about this.

      Ride Safe


  30. It’s uday honda in south delhi , contact 01126519381
    The sales person clearly stated that cbr 250 is no longer available in production and 300 is on its way


  31. Yes contacted 2 other showrooms they are giving the colour left in stock…so what to do now..kindly advice


    • Hi Piyush,
      The thing is , the news have been circulating around for far too long, at this point, I am not sure what to say. I do not know if for this time it is the true news that the production has been stopped.

      The problem being if you go for the current model and one or two months down the line they launch the new one, you would feel devastated, at that time you will feel you could have waited.
      While a price hike if the new model comes is almost sure.

      So it finally trickles down to your mind set, if you are ready to wait, then wait it out, if you are ok with the current model, get it. That is the best advice I can give in this situation.

      Ride Safe


  32. Which bike do you consider the best to upgrade to from pulsar 220 for city commute in price under 2lack ?? Even considering cbr250??


  33. Guys is cbr 250 seat adjustable? If then wat is da minimum height can it b reduced? N will it give the same fuel efficiency in hilly areas? Coz m frm arunachal pradesh. Thanks


    • The stock seat height is not adjustable mate.
      You will have to add/remove the padding in your seat to adjust it as per your needs.
      Fuel efficiency is a matter that us subject to every other persons riding style. A stable 32-33kmpl can be expected if ridden in a sane manner.

      Ride safe


  34. The only issues I found while my ride were
    1. The front nd rear brakes lack initial bite but the feel and feedback is alright
    2 . The contigo tyres are just bad…need a better tyre set like the mrf or the Michelin pilot radial….

    The other stand out feature is an agressive but upright seating posture….And as far as people complaining about the vibrations …well for them I would like to say that this bike is a tourer…and a tourer bike is always designed for a low end torque and an excellent mid range…and this is the segment whr this bike will blow u away…and if u riding the bike in this way i mean riding it in the mid range u’ll have no problems with the vibrations

    Rest an excellent review bro…


    • The tyres are indeed a nightmare, it is not at all safe for an all round year use. Changing to better tyres is a must do if getting this bike.
      And thanks for the appreciative words


  35. Have driven my cbr250 abs for 8k and want to change the crappy concontinental. Kindly suggest Whts best as of today . the Options I have explored with pricing are as follows for rear tire
    Michelin same size Rs 3800
    Pirelli demons Rs 4900

    Kindly advise


  36. Hi team,

    Whenever I come back from ride , the disk plates are very hot , both front n rear ever after 10km of ride…. Is it normal?


    • Disks getting hot is common ..but its mostly on too much usage of brakes. You can inspect for contact of pads and rotors when the lever is not pressed and confirm. Heat is normal but should not be exceptional heat that means rubbing of pads on rotor even when brake is not applied.


  37. Hello CBR250R owners, I need a small clarification about maintaining less Throttle till the first service[i.e within 1000Kms], and people around me are saying not go more than 40Kmph on CBR250R which can be telling while you are buying a hero splendor or some 100 CC Bike, and also when i was in 40kmph the rpm is quickly raising and to control it I’m releasing the throttle and also hearing a Lusty sounds when i try to maintain this 40 Speed and if i increase my speed to 50 or 55 then the sound is very very smooth, at the moment i used to recollect the 40 Limit and again I’m decreasing the speed…….
    But one of my mates who owns the same bike told me that, since the Engine is very powerful so i can go a max of 60-65 but not to cross 70Kmph, I’m really confused about this, Please share your experience regarding maintaining speed and THANKS IN ADVANCE…

    Drive Safely….! 🙂


  38. Hi there 🙂
    I have been following you since the days you first did the review of CBR250r as i was among those people who used to adore the very simple yet elegant and high class design of this bike. I bought my bike black cbr 250r standard on 31st of dec 2014 or if you feel you may consider it being vroomed on 1st of january 2015. I was aware of new cbr being launched in 300 cc category but somehow i was a fan of this tempting design and i must be the only one to who dual head light design of cbr 300 doesnt appeal much nor the exhaust coming with it.
    I was very much sure about my purchasing and needs and your review was one concrete thing to make my decision firm about it.

    Now i wish to ask you few things about my bike.
    1. The engine gets heated up very frequently though i have never seen the bars going up then 3 ever. Still its bit of a concerned to me. Two services been done. I took it on highway just once as i am mostly 10 to 8 person but i like to drive it often and i may be driving oddly between 6-10 kms a day. sometimes i feel lag of power in it or like it is under-powered when i want to really get a fast ride.

    2. My bike, when applied the rear brakes, make some disgusting noise. I referred to one of the mechanic head from our honda service station and he said the braking pads are done and are of no longer a use. Does something like that can really happen and i bought the bike just in January and in such a short span of time the brake pads are of no use any more. How is it possible ? Yeah i ride in the city – apply brakes more often but then too , they are not supposed to give up so early, or were they ! the disc too get heated up but thats been told by the friend that its normal and it happens. Now obviously i need to get the pads changed but by 3rd service is due so can i claim warranty as i have been said it will cost me 2 thousand bugs to fix it. Am i getting the services done too frequently. i am not taking any account of the interval and i know that foolishness but i just go with my instinct. If i feel the bike need the service, i get it done. First service was as per the guide lines of the manual but i dont really remember about the second one. The rear brakes or pads i dont know which one of them making such noise as if something got struck between the rear tyre and when the bike is running after the engine being killed like when i reach my home , a few meters away i kill the engine and at that time the sound from the rear tyre is so audible/loud and embarrassing that i cant tell you. I need help on this specifically. I dont know if i could explain you properly the problem but i hope you understood !

    3. The kilometers always gets set to 0 after completing 1000 kms, this is again one of the reason i am not able to keep account of the servicing of the bike and am getting the oil and oil filter change with every service yet the bike gets heated up. My friend asked me to change the brand of the oil. next time i will go to workshop i will look into it that which oil they r putting in my bike as i read your comments which say look for black box packaged oil as they might be putting the silver one used for scooters. Thanks for that info – it was mind opener.

    4. Shall i polish it from time to time and if yes the which polish to use or u may suggest something else to keep it shining as my bike is black in color and you possibly might be knowing the real life struggles to maintain the black color. i got few scratches too – how am i suppose to take take care of them to make them go or look invisible .

    Awaiting your reply i wish you best of luck for your future endeavors.
    Am glad theres a life line like you to who we can look upto 🙂


    • Hi Jatesh, glad to know you follow my work.
      Now to get to your doubts.
      The engine heat you are feeling is quite normal,a liquid cooled bike does dissipate more heat. But since the temp gauge is showing 3 bars only so it should be fine. No worries there. The CBR was never made for a sudden outburst of speeds, it is to be taken in a linear once you cross 7k rpm in each gear the power is really there.
      2.sounds like the pads are fully worn out,change the pads asap ,do not run or apply brakes on those pads or the rotors might get damaged. And Honda spares are costly,so do one thing head to a baja SVC centre and get the bybre brake pads for the rear of either ns200 or as200 they all share the same brake units from bybre. And it Costa less than 300 while Honda charges 800 plus for the same. So you get the drift here,do not buy pads from Honda,get them at bajaj instead and get it fitted from Honda,just remove the bajaj packing when handing it over to them 😉
      3. OK so this seems funny. I think you are running on the trip meter, press the mode button and it will change to odo reading which shows total reading. It is good to change oil filter every time,actually it should be done. If possible get shell fully synthetic oil. It is the best suited for the CBR.
      4.polishing is fine. I suggest turtle wax or f1 polish for wax/polishing. Waxing and proper buffing should cover most small scratches so no worries there.

      Thanks for the kind words mate. Do share the blog and spread the word. Would be of great help. 🙂


  39. I saw your previous replies to the other questions and i knew mine would be on its way any time soon and here it is. love it completely. I will set the meter as u suggested and will get the pads from a bajaj’s svc – thanks a lot mate – u save me so much money i swear 😀

    will be taking care of my baby blade in a much better way now – i cannot tell you how much happy i am – thanks once again bud 🙂 🙂


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